If you're looking to add a stunning and relatively easy-to-care-for LPS coral to your reef tank, Blastomussa corals deserve your attention. I've been keeping these beautiful corals for over a decade, and they remain one of my favorite additions to any reef aquarium. Their puffy, colorful polyps and peaceful nature make them perfect for both beginners and experienced reefers.
What sets Blastomussa apart from other LPS corals is their forgiving nature and stunning coloration. Unlike more demanding species like Acropora or even some frogspawn coral varieties, Blastomussa corals thrive in moderate conditions and don't require intense lighting or pristine water quality. They're often called "pineapple corals" due to their distinctive appearance when fully extended.
In this comprehensive guide, I'll share everything you need to know about caring for Blastomussa corals in 2025. We'll cover both main species - Blastomussa wellsi and Blastomussa merletti - and I'll explain the crucial differences between them that many aquarists overlook. Whether you're setting up your first reef tank or looking to add to your existing collection, this guide will help you succeed with these magnificent corals.
Understanding Blastomussa Coral: Species Overview and Natural Habitat
Blastomussa corals belong to the family Mussidae and are classified as Large Polyp Stony (LPS) corals. The genus was first described by Wijsman-Best in 1973, with two primary species recognized today: Blastomussa wellsi and Blastomussa merletti. Recent phylogenetic studies by Benzoni et al. (2014) have confirmed the distinct characteristics of these species within the Mussidae family.
In their natural habitat, Blastomussa corals are found throughout the Indo-Pacific region, from the Red Sea to the western Pacific Ocean. They typically inhabit protected reef slopes and lagoons at depths ranging from 3 to 40 meters (10 to 130 feet). These corals prefer areas with moderate water flow and subdued lighting, often growing under overhangs or in partially shaded locations on the reef.
The natural environment of Blastomussa corals provides important clues for their care in captivity. They're commonly found in turbid waters with higher nutrient levels compared to pristine outer reef environments. This explains why they're more tolerant of elevated nitrate and phosphate levels than many SPS corals. In the wild, they feed on zooplankton and dissolved organic compounds, extending their polyps primarily at night when planktonic prey is most abundant.
Blastomussa Wellsi vs Merletti: Key Differences
Understanding the differences between Blastomussa wellsi and Blastomussa merletti is crucial for proper care, as each species has slightly different requirements and growth patterns.
Blastomussa wellsi is the larger of the two species, with corallites (individual polyps) typically measuring 10-14mm in diameter. The polyps are well-separated from each other, connected by thin tissue at the base. When fully extended, B. wellsi polyps can appear almost spherical, resembling small bubbles or grapes. This species tends to grow in a more spread-out pattern, with new polyps budding from the base and sides of existing ones. Colors range from deep reds and greens to vibrant blues and purples, often with contrasting oral discs.
Blastomussa merletti features smaller, more tightly packed corallites, usually 7-10mm in diameter. The polyps grow closer together, creating a more compact colony structure. B. merletti tends to form denser clusters and grows slightly faster than B. wellsi under optimal conditions. This species often displays more subtle coloration, with browns, greens, and muted reds being common, though exceptional specimens can show brilliant colors rivaling B. wellsi.
From a care perspective, B. merletti generally adapts more quickly to new tank conditions and is slightly more forgiving of parameter fluctuations. B. wellsi, while equally hardy once established, may take longer to fully extend its polyps in a new environment. Both species share similar care requirements, but B. merletti typically accepts a wider range of lighting conditions.
Essential Tank Requirements for Blastomussa Coral
Setting up the right environment for Blastomussa corals starts with understanding their basic tank requirements. While these corals are relatively forgiving, providing optimal conditions will reward you with better growth, coloration, and polyp extension.
Tank Size and Placement Considerations
Blastomussa corals can thrive in tanks as small as 20 gallons, though I recommend at least 30 gallons for long-term stability. The key isn't so much the tank size but rather the stability of water parameters and available space for growth. In smaller tanks, you'll need to be more diligent about water changes and parameter monitoring.
When choosing placement in your tank, consider that Blastomussa corals are peaceful and won't compete aggressively for space. They should be placed on the sandbed or lower rockwork, away from aggressive coral species. I've found they do best when given at least 4-6 inches of clearance from other corals. Their sweeper tentacles are minimal, extending only about 1-2 inches at night, so they won't harm nearby corals but can be damaged by more aggressive neighbors.
Avoid placing Blastomussa directly under intense water flow or high-output lighting. They prefer indirect flow and moderate to low light levels. In my experience, the bottom third of the tank is ideal, especially in areas that receive gentle, random flow patterns rather than direct laminar flow.
Water Parameters: The Foundation of Success
Maintaining stable water parameters is crucial for Blastomussa coral health. Here are the optimal ranges I've found through years of keeping these corals:
Temperature: 75-79°F (24-26°C) - Blastomussa corals are sensitive to rapid temperature changes. Use a reliable heater with a controller to maintain stability within 1°F daily variance.
Salinity: 1.025-1.026 specific gravity (35 ppt) - Consistency is more important than hitting an exact number. Avoid salinity swings greater than 0.001 per day.
pH: 8.1-8.4 - Natural pH fluctuation between day and night is normal and healthy. If your pH drops below 7.8 at night, consider improving gas exchange or adding a refugium with reverse photoperiod lighting.
Alkalinity: 8-11 dKH - I maintain my tanks at 9 dKH for Blastomussa, as they don't consume alkalinity as rapidly as SPS corals. Stability is crucial - swings greater than 1 dKH per day can cause stress.
Calcium: 400-450 ppm - Blastomussa corals have moderate calcium demands. Weekly testing is usually sufficient unless you have a heavily stocked LPS tank.
Magnesium: 1250-1350 ppm - Often overlooked, magnesium helps maintain proper calcium and alkalinity balance. Test monthly and adjust as needed.
Nitrate: 5-15 ppm - Unlike SPS corals, Blastomussa actually benefits from slightly elevated nitrates. I've seen best coloration and growth at 10 ppm.
Phosphate: 0.03-0.08 ppm - Some phosphate is beneficial for tissue health and coloration. Ultra-low phosphate levels can lead to pale, stressed corals.
Lighting Requirements: Finding the Sweet Spot
Blastomussa corals are adapted to lower light conditions, making them perfect for tanks without high-end lighting systems. In terms of PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation), they thrive between 50-150 PAR, with the sweet spot around 75-100 PAR for most specimens.
I've successfully kept Blastomussa under various lighting types:
LED Lighting: Modern LED fixtures work excellently for Blastomussa. Set your whites at 40-60% and blues at 60-80% intensity. Avoid intense UV or violet spectrums directly over the coral. Popular fixtures like AI Prime, Kessil A360, or even budget-friendly black boxes work well when properly adjusted.
T5 Fluorescent: If using T5s, a combination of blue plus and actinic bulbs with one or two daylight bulbs provides ideal spectrum. Position Blastomussa in areas receiving indirect light or toward the tank edges where intensity is lower.
Metal Halide: While overkill for Blastomussa alone, if you're running metal halides for other corals, place Blastomussa in shaded areas or the bottom of the tank where they'll receive 70-100 PAR.
Light acclimation is critical when introducing new Blastomussa colonies. Start them at the bottom of your tank or in a shaded area, then gradually move them to their final position over 2-3 weeks. Watch for signs of too much light: polyps staying retracted during photoperiod, bleaching (loss of color), or tissue recession from the skeleton.
Water Flow: Gentle and Random Works Best
Blastomussa corals prefer low to moderate, indirect water flow. In their natural habitat, they're found in protected areas where water movement is gentle and variable. Too much flow will prevent polyp extension and can even cause tissue damage, while insufficient flow leads to detritus accumulation and potential tissue necrosis.
I aim for just enough flow to gently sway the coral's tentacles when extended. The movement should be random and turbulent rather than laminar (straight-line flow). This can be achieved using powerheads with wide-angle nozzles, wavemakers with random flow patterns, or by positioning the coral where flow from multiple pumps intersects.
Signs of proper flow include full polyp extension during feeding times, no detritus accumulation on the coral tissue, and gentle swaying movement of tentacles. If you notice polyps on one side staying retracted while others extend, you likely have too much directional flow hitting that area.
Feeding Your Blastomussa Coral: Nutrition for Growth and Color
While Blastomussa corals host zooxanthellae and derive nutrition through photosynthesis, supplemental feeding significantly enhances their growth rate, coloration, and overall health. In my experience, fed Blastomussa colonies grow 2-3 times faster than those relying solely on photosynthesis.
What to Feed: Diet Options
Blastomussa corals are opportunistic feeders with relatively large mouths capable of consuming various food sizes. Here's what I've found works best:
Frozen Foods: Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and chopped seafood are excellent choices. I particularly like PE Mysis and Hikari Mysis for their high nutritional value. Thaw frozen food in tank water before feeding to prevent temperature shock to the polyps.
Pellet Foods: High-quality pellet foods sized 0.5-1.5mm work well. Reef-Roids, Benepets, and LPS pellets from Fauna Marin are favorites in my tanks. Soak pellets in tank water with added vitamins or amino acids for enhanced nutrition.
Powdered Foods: Coral foods like Reef-Roids, Polyp Lab Reef-Booster, and Coral Frenzy provide excellent nutrition for smaller polyps and promote overall tissue health. Mix with tank water to create a slurry for target feeding.
Liquid Foods: Amino acids and coral vitamins like Brighwell Aquatics Aminomega, Red Sea Reef Energy, or Polyp Lab Polyp-Booster enhance coloration and promote tissue growth when dosed regularly.
Live foods like baby brine shrimp and rotifers are also accepted but aren't necessary for success. I save live foods for breeding projects or particularly finicky corals.
Feeding Schedule and Technique
I feed my Blastomussa colonies 2-3 times per week, though they can thrive on once-weekly feedings if necessary. The key is consistency rather than frequency. Here's my feeding routine:
Evening Feeding: Blastomussa polyps extend more fully after lights out. I begin feeding 30 minutes after the main lights turn off, when polyps are fully extended and actively searching for food.
Target Feeding Method: Turn off powerheads or reduce flow to minimum. Using a turkey baster or coral feeder, gently deliver food directly to each polyp's oral disc. The polyp will quickly grab and consume appropriately sized food items. Each polyp can typically handle 2-3 mysis shrimp or equivalent-sized portions.
Broadcast Feeding: For powdered foods, I turn off the skimmer and reduce flow, then broadcast feed the entire tank. Blastomussa will capture particles from the water column with their tentacles. Resume normal flow after 30 minutes and restart the skimmer after 2 hours.
Watch for feeding responses - healthy Blastomussa will immediately grab food and fold their oral disc to consume it. If polyps aren't responding to food, check your water parameters and ensure the coral isn't stressed.
Signs of Proper Nutrition
Well-fed Blastomussa corals display several indicators of good health. The tissue should appear plump and inflated, extending well beyond the skeleton during the day. Colors become more vibrant and saturated with regular feeding, particularly reds and oranges. You'll notice faster growth rates, with new polyps budding from the base and sides of existing polyps every few months.
Underfed corals appear deflated with tissue pulled tight against the skeleton. Colors fade to browns and pale greens, and growth slows or stops entirely. In severe cases, you might see tissue recession starting from polyp edges.
Common Problems and Troubleshooting
Even with proper care, Blastomussa corals can occasionally experience issues. I've encountered most of these problems over the years and learned how to identify and address them quickly.
Polyps Not Opening: Diagnosis and Solutions
When Blastomussa polyps remain retracted, it's usually a sign of environmental stress. First, test all water parameters - even small deviations in alkalinity or salinity can cause polyps to close. Check for aggressive neighbors; I once had a Blastomussa that wouldn't open until I moved it away from a hammer coral whose sweeper tentacles were reaching it at night.
Excessive flow is another common culprit. If polyps on one side stay closed while others open, redirect flow away from the affected area. Sometimes, simply rotating the coral 45 degrees solves the problem. Light shock from upgraded fixtures or moving the coral too quickly can also cause extended retraction. In this case, move the coral to a shaded area and gradually increase light exposure over 2-3 weeks.
New additions often take 1-2 weeks to fully acclimate and extend polyps normally. Be patient and maintain stable conditions. If polyps haven't opened after 3 weeks despite perfect parameters, consider a brief freshwater dip (temperature and pH matched) to remove potential parasites or irritants.
Tissue Recession: Causes and Treatment
Tissue recession in Blastomussa typically starts at polyp edges and progresses toward the center. Brown jelly disease, caused by bacterial infection, is the most serious form. If you see brown, slimy tissue, immediately remove the coral and suck off all brown jelly with a turkey baster. Dip the coral in iodine solution (follow product instructions) and consider antibiotic treatment in a hospital tank.
Slow tissue recession without brown jelly often indicates parameter issues or insufficient nutrition. Check alkalinity stability first - swings greater than 1 dKH daily can trigger recession. Increase feeding frequency and consider adding amino acids to boost the coral's immune response. I've saved many receding Blastomussa by doubling feeding frequency and maintaining rock-solid parameters.
Physical damage from fish, invertebrates, or handling can also cause localized recession. Peppermint shrimp and emerald crabs sometimes pick at Blastomussa tissue. If you suspect predation, observe the tank at night with a red light to identify culprits.
Color Loss and Bleaching
Blastomussa corals can lose color for various reasons. Excessive lighting is the primary cause of bleaching (complete color loss to white or transparent tissue). If bleaching occurs, immediately move the coral to a shaded area and reduce photoperiod by 2 hours. Bleached corals can recover with proper care, though it may take 2-3 months to regain full coloration.
Browning (loss of vibrant colors to dull brown) usually indicates excess nutrients or insufficient light. Test nitrate and phosphate levels - while Blastomussa tolerates moderate nutrients, levels above 20 ppm nitrate or 0.1 ppm phosphate can cause browning. Gradually increase lighting intensity and consider carbon dosing or increased water changes to reduce nutrients.
Pale colors without complete bleaching suggest nutritional deficiency. Increase feeding frequency and add coral vitamins or amino acids. I've seen dramatic color improvement within 4-6 weeks of enhanced feeding regimens.
Pests and Predators
Several pests specifically target Blastomussa corals. Blastomussa-eating nudibranchs are small (2-5mm), often matching the coral's color. Inspect new additions carefully and consider preventive dips. If you find nudibranchs, manual removal and repeated freshwater dips (4-5 minutes) are effective.
Bristleworms occasionally irritate Blastomussa tissue, causing retraction. While most bristleworms are beneficial, large specimens should be removed if seen near affected corals. Red flatworms (planaria) can smother coral tissue in severe infestations. Treatment with flatworm exit works but requires careful preparation to prevent die-off toxins from harming corals.
Some fish species may nip at Blastomussa polyps. Dwarf angels, particularly Coral Beauty and Flame Angels, are known occasional nippers. Butterflies, especially Copperband butterflies, may also target LPS polyps. If fish harassment is suspected, consider rehoming the fish or protecting the coral with plastic mesh until the fish loses interest.
Propagation and Fragging Techniques
Fragging Blastomussa corals is relatively straightforward and a great way to share or trade with fellow reefers. I've successfully fragged dozens of colonies over the years with minimal losses.
When and How to Frag?
Wait until your Blastomussa colony has at least 10-15 polyps before considering fragging. Healthy, well-established colonies handle fragging stress better than recent additions. I prefer fragging in the morning, giving the coral all day to recover under appropriate lighting.
For Blastomussa wellsi, use bone cutters to clip the skeleton connecting individual polyps. Each polyp sits on its own corallite, making separation clean. Cut as far from living tissue as possible to minimize damage. For Blastomussa merletti with its clustered growth, use a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel or a band saw for larger colonies. Always wear safety glasses and gloves when fragging.
Before cutting, examine the colony's structure. Look for natural separation points where tissue is thinnest. I mark cut lines with a pencil while the coral is retracted. Work quickly but carefully - the longer the coral is out of water, the more stressed it becomes. Have several containers of tank water ready to rinse frags immediately after cutting.
Post-Fragging Care
After fragging, dip all pieces in iodine solution to prevent infection. I use Lugol's solution at 10 drops per cup of tank water for 5 minutes. Place frags and the mother colony in lower flow areas with slightly reduced lighting for the first week. Don't feed for 2-3 days to allow tissue to heal over cut edges.
Mount frags on plugs or rubble rock using coral glue (cyanoacrylate) or epoxy. Let glue cure for 30 seconds before returning to water. Some tissue retraction around cut areas is normal and should resolve within a week. If you notice any brown jelly or rapid tissue loss, perform another iodine dip immediately.
New frags typically resume normal polyp extension within 3-5 days and show new growth within a month. Success rates are high - I achieve 95% survival with proper technique and aftercare.
Creating the Ideal Blastomussa Reef Environment
Building a successful reef tank for Blastomussa involves more than just maintaining proper parameters. The entire ecosystem needs consideration, from saltwater aquarium fish selection to coral placement strategies.
Compatible Tank Mates
Blastomussa corals coexist peacefully with most reef inhabitants. For fish, I've had excellent success with clownfish, gobies, wrasses, cardinals, and tangs. These species ignore corals and help maintain tank cleanliness. Avoid known coral nippers like triggers, puffers, and large angelfish. Dwarf angels are hit-or-miss - some individuals never touch corals while others become persistent nippers.
For invertebrates, cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp (with caution), and small hermit crabs are generally safe. Avoid arrow crabs and large hermits that might walk over and irritate coral tissue. Emerald crabs usually ignore Blastomussa but watch for individual exceptions. Urchins can knock over loose colonies but don't typically eat the tissue.
Coral companions should be chosen carefully. Other peaceful LPS like Chalice corals, Lobophyllia, and Symphyllia make excellent neighbors. Soft corals like leather corals and zoanthids work well if given adequate spacing. Avoid placing Blastomussa near aggressive species like Galaxea, torch corals, or hammer corals with long sweeper tentacles. SPS corals can share the same tank but require different placement due to lighting and flow preferences.
Long-term Maintenance Schedule
Consistency in maintenance ensures long-term success with Blastomussa corals. Here's my proven maintenance routine:
Daily: Check temperature and observe polyp extension. Look for any signs of stress or unusual behavior. Top off evaporated water with RO/DI to maintain salinity.
Weekly: Test alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Perform 10-20% water change depending on bioload. Clean glass and remove any detritus from coral surfaces with a turkey baster. Feed Blastomussa 2-3 times throughout the week.
Bi-weekly: Test nitrate and phosphate levels. Clean protein skimmer collection cup and neck. Check and clean powerhead intakes and impellers if flow seems reduced.
Monthly: Comprehensive parameter testing including pH and salinity verification with refractometer calibration. Clean or replace filter socks/pads. Inspect all equipment for proper operation. Photograph coral to track growth and color changes.
Quarterly: Deep clean powerheads and return pumps. Replace chemical media (carbon/GFO if used). Calibrate all testing equipment. Evaluate coral placement and consider fragging overgrown colonies.
Annually: Replace UV bulbs, T5 tubes, or check LED fixture output with PAR meter. Service or replace aging equipment. Consider upgrading based on coral growth and tank evolution.
Species-Specific Care Considerations
While general care principles apply to both species, understanding specific nuances helps optimize conditions for each type of Blastomussa.
Optimizing for Blastomussa Wellsi
B. wellsi's larger polyps and spaced growth pattern require slightly different considerations. These corals benefit from target feeding individual polyps rather than broadcast feeding. Their larger mouths can handle bigger food items - whole mysis shrimp or even small pieces of market shrimp work well. I've found B. wellsi shows best coloration at the lower end of the recommended light spectrum, around 50-75 PAR.
Growth patterns in B. wellsi tend to be more horizontal, spreading across rock surfaces or sand beds. Provide adequate horizontal space for expansion - at least 6 inches diameter for mature colonies. New buds typically appear at the base of existing polyps, gradually forming satellite colonies around the parent. This species seems more sensitive to alkalinity fluctuations, so I maintain extra vigilance when keeping predominantly B. wellsi.
Color development in B. wellsi responds dramatically to feeding. Red and orange morphs particularly benefit from foods rich in carotenoids. I supplement with Reef-Roids and cyclopeeze to enhance these colors. Blue and purple varieties maintain better color under slightly higher PAR (75-100) with strong blue spectrum supplementation.
Optimizing for Blastomussa Merletti
B. merletti's clustered growth creates different dynamics. The tighter polyp spacing means broadcast feeding works effectively, as the colony can capture more particles from the water column. Smaller food items like Reef-Roids or finely chopped mysis are ideal. This species tolerates slightly higher light levels, thriving at 75-125 PAR, though it still prefers moderate conditions.
Growth in B. merletti tends to be more vertical and clustered, building upward rather than outward. This growth pattern makes them excellent for smaller tanks or areas with limited horizontal space. New polyps emerge between existing ones, gradually increasing colony density. Regular feeding accelerates this budding process significantly.
B. merletti seems more adaptable to parameter variations, making it ideal for newer reef keepers. The species also shows faster recovery from fragging or stress events. Color tends toward earth tones naturally, but exceptional specimens display vivid greens and reds. These colors intensify with stable parameters and consistent feeding routines rather than specific light spectrums.
Advanced Tips for Maximum Growth and Coloration
After years of keeping Blastomussa corals, I've discovered several techniques that significantly enhance their growth and appearance beyond basic care requirements.
Nutrient Management for Color
While Blastomussa tolerates moderate nutrients, fine-tuning levels optimizes coloration. I maintain nitrates at 8-10 ppm and phosphates at 0.05 ppm for best results. This slight elevation compared to SPS systems provides necessary nutrients without promoting nuisance algae. Carbon dosing helps maintain this balance - I use vodka dosing at 0.1ml per 10 gallons daily, adjusting based on testing.
Trace element supplementation makes a noticeable difference in color intensity. I dose iodine, iron, and potassium based on ICP testing every 3 months. Iodine particularly enhances blue and purple pigments, while iron intensifies reds and greens. Start with manufacturer-recommended doses and adjust based on coral response and testing.
Growth Acceleration Techniques
Strategic feeding accelerates growth beyond normal rates. I've found alternating food types prevents nutrition gaps - frozen foods Monday, pellets Wednesday, and powder foods Friday works well. Adding amino acids directly to food before feeding increases absorption and utilization. Soak frozen foods in Selcon or Vitachem for added nutrition.
Stable alkalinity is crucial for consistent growth. I use a dosing pump to maintain 9 dKH with variation less than 0.2 daily. This stability promotes steady skeletal growth without stress. Calcium consumption increases with growth - monitor and adjust supplementation accordingly.
Consider the lunar cycle's influence on coral behavior. Many reefers report increased polyp extension and feeding response during full moon periods. While not scientifically proven, I've noticed similar patterns and increase feeding frequency during these times.
Photography and Documentation
Documenting your Blastomussa's progress helps track health and growth while creating beautiful memories. For photography, use orange lens filters to compensate for blue LED lighting. Shoot during peak polyp extension, typically 1-2 hours after lights on or 30 minutes after lights off with actinics only.
Maintain a coral journal noting purchase date, source, initial size, and placement. Monthly photos from the same angle track growth effectively. Record parameter readings, feeding schedules, and any changes in appearance or behavior. This documentation proves invaluable for troubleshooting issues or replicating success with new colonies.
Conservation and Ethical Considerations
As reef keepers, we have a responsibility to protect wild coral populations through ethical practices. Blastomussa species face threats from climate change, ocean acidification, and collection pressure in their native habitats. The IUCN lists Indo-Pacific Blastomussa species as Near Threatened, highlighting the importance of sustainable practices.
Always purchase aquacultured specimens when possible. Fragged corals from fellow hobbyists or professional propagators reduce wild collection pressure. Many online vendors now offer extensive aquacultured Blastomussa selections with unique colorations not found in wild colonies. These tank-raised specimens typically adapt faster to aquarium conditions and show better initial survival rates.
Support coral restoration efforts through organizations working to preserve reef ecosystems. Consider joining local reef clubs that promote coral propagation and education. Share frags with other hobbyists to spread captive-bred colonies throughout the hobby. Document and share your successes to help others succeed without requiring wild-collected specimens.
When purchasing wild-collected specimens is unavoidable, ensure suppliers follow sustainable collection practices with proper permits and quotas. Ask vendors about collection locations and methods. Supporting responsible businesses encourages better industry practices overall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast do Blastomussa corals grow?
Growth rates vary significantly based on feeding and conditions. With optimal care and regular feeding, expect 1-2 new polyps every 2-3 months from a healthy colony. Blastomussa merletti typically grows slightly faster than B. wellsi due to its clustered growth pattern. Unfed colonies may only produce 1-2 new polyps annually.
Can Blastomussa corals touch each other?
Blastomussa colonies of the same species can touch without issues. Different color morphs of the same species coexist peacefully. However, maintain spacing between Blastomussa and other coral genera to prevent warfare. Even peaceful species can stress each other through chemical competition when placed too closely.
Why are my Blastomussa polyps elongated and reaching upward?
Elongated, stretching polyps indicate insufficient light. The coral is attempting to maximize light capture by extending toward the source. Gradually increase lighting intensity or move the coral to a brighter location. Proper lighting results in polyps that extend outward rather than upward.
Do Blastomussa corals need to be fed?
While not absolutely necessary for survival, feeding dramatically improves growth, coloration, and overall health. Unfed colonies survive through photosynthesis alone but grow slowly and often display muted colors. I strongly recommend feeding at least once weekly for optimal results.
Can I keep Blastomussa in a tank without a protein skimmer?
Yes, Blastomussa actually thrives in nutrient-rich systems without skimmers. However, you'll need excellent biological filtration and regular water changes to prevent excess nutrient accumulation. Monitor parameters closely and be prepared for increased maintenance without mechanical filtration.
How do I know if my Blastomussa is getting too much flow?
Excessive flow causes polyps to remain retracted or lean consistently in one direction. Tissue may appear stretched or pulled tight against the skeleton. In extreme cases, you'll see tissue tearing or recession on the upstream side. Proper flow allows full polyp extension with gentle random movement.
What causes Blastomussa to develop multiple mouths per polyp?
Multiple mouths indicate the polyp is preparing to divide into two separate polyps. This is a positive sign of growth and health. Continue normal care and feeding - the polyp will gradually separate into distinct individuals over several weeks to months.
Can Blastomussa recover from complete bleaching?
Yes, if tissue remains intact, recovery is possible. Immediately reduce lighting to minimal levels and maintain perfect water parameters. Begin feeding small amounts of powdered coral food daily once polyps extend. Recovery takes 2-4 months, with color gradually returning as zooxanthellae populations rebuild.
Should I use carbon in a Blastomussa tank?
Carbon use is optional and depends on your system. It helps maintain water clarity and removes coral warfare chemicals, beneficial in mixed reef tanks. However, aggressive carbon use might strip beneficial trace elements. If using carbon, run it intermittently (1 week per month) rather than continuously.
How do I acclimate new Blastomussa to my tank?
Temperature acclimate for 20 minutes, then drip acclimate for 45-60 minutes, doubling water volume gradually. Optionally, perform a coral dip using iodine or coral rx to remove pests. Start new additions in lower light areas and gradually move to final placement over 2-3 weeks to prevent light shock.
Conclusion
Blastomussa corals represent one of the best choices for reef aquarists seeking beautiful, hardy LPS corals that don't demand perfect conditions or intense lighting. Through my years of experience with both B. wellsi and B. merletti, I've found them to be forgiving of minor mistakes while rewarding proper care with stunning growth and coloration.
The key to success lies in stability rather than chasing perfect parameters. Maintain consistent conditions, feed regularly, and provide appropriate lighting and flow. Your Blastomussa will respond with full polyp extension, vibrant colors, and steady growth. Whether you're just starting your reef aquarium setup or adding to an established system, these corals offer beauty without the demanding requirements of more challenging species.
Remember that each Blastomussa colony has its own personality and preferences. What works perfectly for one aquarist might need adjustment in your system. Pay attention to your coral's responses and adjust accordingly. With patience and proper care, Blastomussa corals will become centerpiece additions to your reef, providing years of enjoyment and potentially many frags to share with fellow reefers.
As we continue advancing our understanding of coral husbandry, Blastomussa serves as an excellent example of how proper aquarium care can maintain and propagate species facing threats in the wild. By choosing aquacultured specimens and sharing our successes, we contribute to both the hobby's sustainability and coral conservation efforts worldwide.
