After keeping honey gouramis for over 15 years, I've learned they're one of the most rewarding fish for both beginners and experienced aquarists.
Many people struggle with choosing the right peaceful community fish that won't break the bank or require expert-level care. The honey gourami solves both problems beautifully.
I've successfully bred these golden beauties, dealt with unexpected aggression issues, and figured out the perfect tank setups through trial and error. This guide shares everything I've learned, including the mistakes that cost me several breeding attempts.
You'll discover exactly how to set up your tank, choose compatible tank mates, and avoid the common pitfalls that lead to shy, hiding fish or failed breeding attempts.
What is a Honey Gourami?
Quick Answer: The honey gourami (Trichogaster chuna) is a small, peaceful freshwater fish native to India and Bangladesh, known for its golden-orange coloration and labyrinth organ that allows it to breathe air from the surface.
These fish belong to the gourami family (Osphronemidae) and inhabit slow-moving waters with dense vegetation in their natural habitat.
The labyrinth organ sets them apart from most aquarium fish. This specialized breathing apparatus allows them to extract oxygen directly from air at the water surface.
Labyrinth Organ: A specialized breathing structure that allows honey gouramis to gulp air from the surface and extract oxygen, enabling survival in low-oxygen environments.
Unlike their more aggressive dwarf gourami cousins, honey gouramis maintain a peaceful temperament in community tanks. I've kept them with everything from neon tetras to corydoras without issues.
The species was first described by Francis Buchanan-Hamilton in 1822 and has since become a staple in the aquarium hobby. Their scientific name has changed from Colisa chuna to the current Trichogaster chuna.
In the wild, they feed on small invertebrates, zooplankton, and insects. This omnivorous diet makes them easy to feed in captivity.
For those exploring other gourami species, the dwarf gourami comparison shows interesting size and temperament differences worth considering.
Honey Gourami Appearance and Size
Quick Answer: Honey gouramis grow to 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm) in length and display golden-orange coloration, with males developing a distinctive black throat during breeding.
The standard honey gourami displays a warm golden-honey color that intensifies with good care and diet. I've noticed my fish develop richer colors after 2-3 weeks of quality feeding.
Males transform dramatically during breeding season. Their throat and belly turn deep black, while their body brightens to vibrant orange-red.
| Feature | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| Size | 2 inches (5 cm) | 1.5-1.75 inches (4 cm) |
| Base Color | Bright golden-orange | Pale silver-brown |
| Breeding Color | Black throat, vibrant orange | Slightly darker |
| Body Shape | Slimmer, pointed dorsal fin | Rounder, fuller belly |
Several color variations exist in the hobby, including the sunset honey gourami (more red) and the wild-type coloration (brownish with a lateral stripe).
Growth rate depends on tank conditions and feeding. My juveniles typically reach adult size within 2-3 months when kept at optimal temperatures.
The red honey gourami variant has become increasingly popular, commanding prices of $8-15 compared to $5-8 for standard varieties.
Essential Honey Gourami Care Requirements
Quick Answer: Honey gouramis need a minimum 10-gallon tank with temperatures of 72-82°F, pH 6.0-7.5, and gentle filtration that doesn't disturb the water surface.
After testing various setups over the years, I've found these parameters produce the healthiest, most active fish.
Water Parameters
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Acceptable Range | Critical Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 76-78°F | 72-82°F | Stable temp prevents stress |
| pH | 6.5-7.0 | 6.0-7.5 | Slightly acidic preferred |
| Hardness | 4-10 dGH | 4-15 dGH | Soft to moderate |
| Ammonia | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | Any level toxic |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | Any level harmful |
| Nitrate | <20 ppm | <40 ppm | Weekly changes needed |
Tank size matters more than most people realize. While a 10-gallon works for a pair, I've seen dramatically better behavior in 20-gallon setups.
Surface access is absolutely critical. These fish must reach the surface to breathe air through their labyrinth organ.
⚠️ Important: Never use a completely sealed tank lid. Honey gouramis need an air gap between water surface and lid for proper labyrinth organ function.
Filtration should create minimal surface agitation. I use sponge filters set to low flow or HOB filters with the output directed against the glass.
Weekly 25-30% water changes maintain stable parameters. I test my water before each change to track trends.
Lighting doesn't need to be intense - moderate lighting for 8-10 hours daily works perfectly and encourages natural behavior.
How to Set Up a Honey Gourami Tank?
Quick Answer: Set up a honey gourami tank with dense plants, gentle filtration, dark substrate, and plenty of surface access, cycling for 2-4 weeks before adding fish.
Here's my proven setup process that's worked for dozens of tanks over the years.
Step-by-Step Tank Setup
- Choose Your Tank: Minimum 10 gallons, though 20 gallons gives much better results ($50-100 for tank)
- Add Substrate: Dark sand or fine gravel, 2 inches deep ($15-25)
- Install Equipment: Heater (50-100W), sponge filter, thermometer ($40-60 total)
- Plant Heavily: Add plants covering 50-70% of tank space
- Cycle the Tank: 2-4 weeks with ammonia source or bacteria starter
- Test Parameters: Ensure zero ammonia/nitrite before adding fish
- Acclimate Fish: Float bag 30 minutes, then drip acclimate for 1 hour
Best Plants for Honey Gourami Tanks
Through years of experimentation, these plants consistently work best:
- Floating Plants: Water sprite, frogbit, or duckweed (provides security and bubble nest anchors)
- Background Plants: Vallisneria, Amazon sword, or water wisteria
- Midground Options: Java fern, Anubias, cryptocorynes
- Foreground Choices: Dwarf hairgrass, java moss, or dwarf sagittaria
Hardscape elements should include driftwood and smooth rocks. Sharp decorations can damage their delicate fins.
✅ Pro Tip: Indian almond leaves add beneficial tannins and create a natural blackwater effect honey gouramis love.
My most successful tanks maintain temperatures with 100W heaters for 20-gallon setups. The extra wattage provides stable temperatures.
Total setup cost typically runs $150-250 for a complete 20-gallon system, not including the fish themselves.
What Do Honey Gouramis Eat?
Quick Answer: Honey gouramis eat high-quality flakes, micro pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia, fed twice daily in small amounts.
I've tested dozens of foods over the years, and variety is key to vibrant colors and healthy fish.
Recommended Diet Schedule
| Day | Morning Feed | Evening Feed |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | Quality flakes | Frozen bloodworms |
| Tuesday | Micro pellets | Quality flakes |
| Wednesday | Frozen brine shrimp | Micro pellets |
| Thursday | Quality flakes | Frozen daphnia |
| Friday | Micro pellets | Frozen bloodworms |
| Saturday | Live/frozen food treat | Quality flakes |
| Sunday | Fast day | Fast day |
Feed only what they consume in 2-3 minutes. Overfeeding causes water quality issues and health problems.
Live foods trigger breeding behavior. I use baby brine shrimp, microworms, or mosquito larvae when conditioning for breeding.
My fish show the best coloration with foods containing astaxanthin and spirulina. Color-enhancing foods really work - I see results within 2 weeks.
If your honey gourami won't eat, check water parameters first. Stress from poor water quality kills appetite immediately.
Honey Gourami Behavior and Temperament
Quick Answer: Honey gouramis are peaceful community fish that become territorial only during breeding, when males defend bubble nests aggressively.
In my experience, 90% of honey gouramis remain peaceful year-round. The other 10% show aggression only during breeding season.
Males build bubble nests at the surface using plant material and saliva. This fascinating behavior occurs even without females present.
Bubble Nest: A floating structure made of air bubbles and saliva where male gouramis protect eggs and fry during breeding.
During breeding, males develop striking black throats and chase other fish from their territory. This lasts 1-2 weeks typically.
Outside breeding periods, they explore all tank levels but prefer the upper third near floating plants.
Managing Breeding Aggression
- Provide Space: Minimum 20 gallons for breeding pairs
- Add Plants: Dense vegetation creates territories and hiding spots
- Separate if Needed: Use a divider or breeding tank if aggression escalates
- Remove Other Males: Keep only one male per tank during breeding season
I've managed aggressive males by adding more plants and creating visual barriers with decorations. This reduces direct line-of-sight confrontations.
Social dynamics work best with one male and 2-3 females, or keeping them as a single specimen in community tanks.
Best Tank Mates for Honey Gouramis
Quick Answer: Honey gouramis thrive with peaceful species like neon tetras, corydoras, rasboras, and small loaches, but avoid fin-nippers and aggressive fish.
After testing numerous combinations, here are my proven compatible tank mates:
Excellent Tank Mates
- Small Tetras: Neons, cardinals, embers, rummy nose (schooling provides security)
- Corydoras: All peaceful bottom-dwelling species work perfectly
- Rasboras: Harlequins, chili, galaxy rasboras add activity
- Small Loaches: Kuhli loaches, dwarf chain loaches stay peaceful
- Other Gouramis: Sparkling gourami care shows they mix well together
- Livebearers: Platies, endlers (not fancy guppies - too flashy)
- Shrimp: Cherry shrimp, amano shrimp (adults only)
Tank Mates to Avoid
- Fin Nippers: Tiger barbs, serpae tetras damage fins
- Large/Aggressive: Cichlids, large gouramis cause stress
- Fast Swimmers: Danios outcompete for food
- Bettas: Similar appearance triggers aggression
⏰ Time Saver: Stock your tank with peaceful species first, then add honey gouramis last to reduce territorial behavior.
For a 20-gallon tank, I recommend: 1 male honey gourami, 2 females, 8-10 small tetras, and 6 corydoras. This creates a balanced, active community.
Stocking calculations should follow the 1-inch-per-gallon rule as a starting point, accounting for adult sizes and bioload.
The investment for tank mates typically runs $30-60 for a complete community setup.
How to Breed Honey Gouramis?
Quick Answer: Breed honey gouramis by conditioning with live foods, raising temperature to 80°F, providing floating plants for bubble nests, and separating parents after spawning.
I've successfully bred honey gouramis dozens of times, though my first three attempts failed due to water parameter issues.
Complete Breeding Process
- Set Up Breeding Tank: 10-gallon minimum with sponge filter and floating plants
- Condition Breeders: Feed live/frozen foods 3x daily for 2 weeks
- Adjust Parameters: Raise temperature to 78-80°F, lower water level to 6-8 inches
- Introduce Pair: Add male first, female after bubble nest appears
- Spawning Occurs: Male wraps female, releases eggs into bubble nest (24-48 hours)
- Remove Female: Immediately after spawning to prevent male aggression
- Male Guards Nest: 24-36 hours until fry hatch
- Remove Male: Once fry are free-swimming (3-4 days after hatching)
- Feed Fry: Infusoria first 3-5 days, then baby brine shrimp
- Growth Phase: Fry reach 1 inch in 6-8 weeks with proper feeding
Success rates improve dramatically with mature fish (6+ months old). Young fish often eat their eggs.
| Stage | Timeline | Key Actions | Common Failures |
|---|---|---|---|
| Conditioning | 2 weeks | High protein diet | Poor nutrition |
| Nest Building | 1-3 days | Provide materials | Strong current |
| Spawning | 2-6 hours | Don't disturb | Stressed fish |
| Egg Stage | 24-36 hours | Male guards | Fungus growth |
| Fry Stage | 2-3 months | Frequent feeding | Starvation |
My breeding setups cost about $75 including tank, heater, sponge filter, and live food cultures.
Each successful spawn produces 50-300 fry, though raising more than 50 requires multiple grow-out tanks.
Common Honey Gourami Problems and Solutions
Quick Answer: Common honey gourami problems include shyness, loss of color, labyrinth organ infections, and breeding aggression, most solved through proper water conditions and tank setup.
Through years of keeping these fish, I've encountered and solved numerous issues. Here are the most common problems:
Behavioral Problems
⚠️ Problem: Fish Hiding Constantly
Solution: Add more plants, reduce tank traffic, check for aggressive tank mates. Recovery takes 1-2 weeks.
⚠️ Problem: Loss of Color
Solution: Improve diet with color-enhancing foods, reduce stress, check water parameters. Colors return in 2-3 weeks.
⚠️ Problem: Won't Eat
Solution: Test water immediately, try live foods, check for illness. Appetite returns once issue resolved.
Health Issues
- Labyrinth Organ Infection: Gasping at surface, lethargy. Treat with clean water, aquarium salt (1 tbsp per 5 gallons)
- Ich (White Spots): Raise temperature to 86°F gradually, add aquarium salt, consider medication if severe
- Fin Rot: Frayed fins, discoloration. Improve water quality, API Fin & Body Cure if needed
- Swim Bladder Issues: Floating or sinking problems. Fast 2-3 days, feed blanched peas
Prevention beats treatment every time. Weekly water changes and stable parameters prevent 90% of issues.
I keep a hospital tank ready - a simple 5-gallon with sponge filter costs $30 but saves fish lives.
Medication costs range from $5-15 per treatment. Quality test kits ($20-30) help catch problems early.
Frequently Asked Questions
How big do honey gouramis get?
Honey gouramis reach 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm) in length, with males slightly larger than females. They reach adult size within 2-3 months of proper feeding and care.
Are honey gouramis aggressive?
Honey gouramis are peaceful 90% of the time but males become territorial during breeding. This aggression lasts 1-2 weeks and can be managed with proper tank setup and space.
Can honey gouramis live alone?
Yes, honey gouramis can live alone and often thrive as single specimens in community tanks. However, they display more natural behaviors when kept in groups with 1 male to 2-3 females.
How long do honey gouramis live?
Honey gouramis typically live 4-6 years with proper care. I've had several reach 7 years in well-maintained planted tanks with stable water parameters.
Do honey gouramis need a heater?
Yes, honey gouramis require a heater to maintain stable temperatures between 72-82°F. Temperature fluctuations cause stress and increase disease susceptibility.
What's the minimum tank size for honey gouramis?
The minimum tank size is 10 gallons for a pair, though 20 gallons provides much better results. Larger tanks offer more stable parameters and reduce territorial conflicts.
Final Thoughts on Honey Gourami Care
After 15 years of keeping honey gouramis, I can confidently say they're among the best beginner-friendly fish available.
The total investment for a proper setup runs $150-250, with fish costing $5-15 each depending on variety. Monthly maintenance costs stay under $20.
Success comes from understanding their unique needs: surface access for breathing, gentle water flow, and plenty of plants for security.
While other gouramis offer different experiences, honey gouramis provide the perfect balance of beauty, personality, and ease of care. Their peaceful nature and stunning breeding colors make them rewarding for aquarists at any experience level.
Start with a well-planted 20-gallon tank, maintain stable parameters, and you'll enjoy these golden gems for years to come.