Lobo Coral Care Guide: Everything You Need to Know

If you're looking to add a stunning centerpiece to your reef tank, the Lobo coral might be exactly what you need. I've been keeping these magnificent LPS (Large Polyp Stony) corals for years, and they never fail to amaze me with their vibrant colors and mesmerizing feeding tentacles that emerge at night. Also known as Lobophyllia, these brain corals are both beautiful and challenging, making them a favorite among experienced reef keepers.

In this comprehensive guide, I'll share everything you need to know about Lobo coral care, from basic requirements to advanced troubleshooting. Whether you're considering your first Lobophyllia or struggling with an existing colony, this guide will help you provide the optimal conditions for these fascinating corals to thrive.

Before we dive deep into care specifics, let me address the elephant in the room: Lobo corals are not for beginners. These corals demand stable water parameters, specific lighting conditions, and an understanding of coral aggression that typically comes with experience. However, with the right knowledge and dedication, keeping Lobophyllia can be incredibly rewarding.

Understanding Lobo Coral: Species and Characteristics

The Lobophyllia genus includes several species commonly found in the aquarium trade, each with slightly different care requirements and appearances. The most common species you'll encounter are Lobophyllia hemprichii, L. hataii, L. corymbosa, and the less common but equally stunning L. rowleyensis.

What makes Lobo corals immediately recognizable is their large, fleshy polyps that can expand dramatically during feeding time. During the day, they appear as colorful, brain-like structures with distinct ridges and valleys. At night, they transform into active predators, extending sweeper tentacles that can reach up to 6 inches to capture prey and defend their territory.

These corals naturally inhabit the Indo-Pacific region, typically found at depths between 3 and 30 meters. In the wild, they often settle in protected areas with moderate water flow and filtered sunlight. Understanding their natural habitat helps us recreate optimal conditions in our home aquariums.

The coloration of Lobo corals varies dramatically, ranging from deep reds and oranges to vibrant greens, blues, and multicolored combinations. Australian specimens tend to display more intense colors and patterns compared to their Indonesian counterparts, though this often comes with a significantly higher price tag.

Essential Water Parameters for Lobo Coral

Maintaining stable water parameters is absolutely critical for Lobo coral health. I've learned through experience that even small fluctuations can cause these corals to retract and lose their vibrant colors. Here are the optimal parameters I maintain in my reef tank:

Temperature should remain steady between 75-79°F (24-26°C). I keep mine at 77°F year-round using a reliable heater and chiller combination. Sudden temperature changes are particularly stressful for Lobophyllia, so invest in quality temperature control equipment.

Salinity needs to stay consistent at 1.025-1.026 specific gravity. I check this daily with a refractometer, as evaporation can quickly alter salinity levels. An auto top-off system helps maintain consistency, but regular manual checks are still essential.

The pH should remain between 8.1 and 8.4, with minimal daily fluctuation. I monitor this closely, especially at night when pH naturally drops due to coral respiration. Running a refugium on a reverse photoperiod helps stabilize pH throughout the 24-hour cycle.

Alkalinity is crucial for skeletal growth and should be maintained between 8-10 dKH. I test alkalinity twice weekly and dose accordingly. Stability is more important than hitting a specific number - pick a target within this range and stick to it.

Calcium levels should stay between 420-450 ppm to support the coral's skeletal structure. Lobo corals are moderate calcium consumers, so regular testing and dosing are necessary, especially in tanks with multiple LPS corals.

Magnesium often gets overlooked, but maintaining levels between 1,250-1,350 ppm is essential for proper calcium and alkalinity balance. I test magnesium weekly and adjust as needed to prevent precipitation issues.

Nitrates should be present but controlled, ideally between 5-10 ppm. Unlike some corals that prefer ultra-low nutrients, Lobophyllia actually benefits from slightly elevated nitrate levels, which help maintain their vibrant colors.

Phosphates work best at 0.03-0.05 ppm. Too low, and the coral may lose color; too high, and algae problems emerge. I've found that feeding the coral regularly helps maintain appropriate phosphate levels naturally.

Lighting Requirements: Finding the Sweet Spot

Getting the lighting right for Lobo corals can be tricky. These corals prefer moderate lighting conditions, typically between 150-200 PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation). I've seen too many hobbyists blast their Lobophyllia with intense lighting, thinking more is better, only to watch their coral bleach and recede.

In my experience, placement in the lower third of the tank works best under most LED systems. If you're using T5 or metal halide lighting, you might need to place them even lower or in a shaded area. I always recommend starting with lower light and gradually increasing if needed - it's much easier to add light than to recover from bleaching.

The spectrum matters too. Lobo corals tend to fluoresce beautifully under blue and violet wavelengths, but they need a full spectrum for proper photosynthesis. I run my lights with about 60% blue, 30% white, and 10% UV/violet for optimal color and growth.

Photoperiod is another consideration. I run my main lights for 8 hours daily, with a 2-hour ramp-up and ramp-down period. This mimics natural sunrise and sunset, reducing stress on the coral. Some hobbyists run longer photoperiods, but I've found 8 hours provides sufficient light without encouraging nuisance algae growth.

Watch for signs of lighting stress. If your Lobo coral appears pale or white, it's likely receiving too much light. Conversely, if it stretches upward or develops brown coloration, it might need more light. The coral will tell you what it needs if you pay attention to these visual cues.

Water Flow: The Goldilocks Principle

Water flow for Lobo corals follows what I call the Goldilocks principle - not too much, not too little, but just right. These corals need low to moderate, indirect flow that's sufficient to keep detritus from settling on their tissue but gentle enough to allow their polyps to expand fully.

Direct flow is the enemy of Lobophyllia. I learned this lesson the hard way when I placed a specimen directly in front of a powerhead. Within days, the tissue began receding from the skeleton where the flow hit hardest. Now I always position these corals in areas with turbulent, random flow patterns.

Creating the right flow pattern often requires multiple powerheads positioned strategically around the tank. I use controllable DC pumps set to random flow modes, which create a more natural water movement. The goal is to see gentle swaying of the coral's tissue, not violent movement.

Night flow is something many hobbyists overlook. When Lobo corals extend their feeding tentacles at night, they become even more sensitive to excessive flow. I program my pumps to reduce flow by about 30% during nighttime hours, allowing the coral to feed more effectively.

You'll know the flow is right when you see the coral's tissue fully inflated during the day with gentle, rhythmic movement. If the tissue appears pinched or constantly pulled to one side, adjust your flow accordingly. Remember, these corals can't move away from unfavorable conditions, so it's our job to get it right.

Placement and Spacing: Avoiding Coral Warfare

One of the most critical aspects of Lobo coral care that I see hobbyists underestimate is proper placement and spacing. These corals are surprisingly aggressive, especially at night when they extend their sweeper tentacles. I've witnessed Lobophyllia destroy neighboring corals that were placed too close, including other LPS species that you'd think could hold their own.

When placing a Lobo coral, I always leave at least 6 inches of space between it and any neighboring corals. This might seem excessive during the day when the coral is retracted, but at night, those sweeper tentacles can reach surprisingly far. I've measured some extending over 6 inches from the main body of the coral.

Substrate placement works well for most Lobo corals. I prefer placing them directly on the sand bed or on low rockwork. This positioning provides several benefits: it keeps them in lower light zones, allows for easy feeding access, and gives them room to expand without touching other corals.

Consider the growth potential when choosing placement. While Lobo corals grow slowly compared to some other LPS species, they do expand over time. A small 3-inch specimen can eventually grow to 6-8 inches or more in diameter. Plan for this future growth to avoid having to move the coral later, which can be stressful for both you and the coral.

If you're keeping multiple Lobo corals, you can place them closer together since they typically won't attack their own species. However, I still maintain at least 3-4 inches between specimens to ensure each has adequate space for expansion and feeding. This also makes maintenance and target feeding much easier.

Feeding Your Lobo Coral: Techniques and Schedule

Feeding is where Lobo coral care gets really interesting. These corals are active feeders that benefit significantly from regular target feeding. While they do host zooxanthellae and can derive nutrition from photosynthesis, supplemental feeding accelerates growth and enhances coloration.

I feed my Lobo corals 2-3 times per week, always after lights out when their feeding tentacles are extended. The transformation is remarkable - what appears as a peaceful brain coral during the day becomes an active predator at night, with tentacles reaching out to capture any available food.

For food, I use a varied diet including mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, chopped krill, and small pieces of fish or scallop. The key is to use appropriately sized pieces - roughly 5-10mm works best. Anything larger might be rejected, while smaller particles often get swept away before the coral can capture them.

My feeding technique involves using a turkey baster or coral feeder to gently place food directly on the coral's tentacles. I turn off all flow for about 20 minutes during feeding to give the coral time to capture and consume the food. You'll see the tentacles grab the food and slowly transport it to the mouth.

I've also had excellent results with liquid coral foods and amino acid supplements. I dose these during the day when the coral's tissue is expanded but tentacles are retracted. These supplements seem to enhance the coral's colors and overall tissue health, though they shouldn't replace solid food offerings.

Broadcast feeding benefits Lobo corals too. When I feed my fish, I make sure some of the smaller particles settle near the Lobophyllia. The coral's mucus helps trap these particles, which are then consumed. This passive feeding supplements the targeted feeding sessions.

One feeding tip I've learned: don't overfeed. While Lobo corals are eager eaters, excess food can lead to water quality issues. If you notice uneaten food after 30 minutes, you're probably offering too much. Start with small amounts and adjust based on the coral's response.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Even with perfect care, Lobo corals can develop problems. I've dealt with most of these issues over the years, and early detection is key to successful treatment. Here are the most common problems and their solutions:

Tissue recession is perhaps the most serious issue you'll encounter. It typically starts at the edges and progresses inward, exposing the white skeleton. Common causes include aggressive neighbors, poor water quality, excessive flow, or bacterial infections. If you notice recession, immediately check water parameters and examine the coral's surroundings for potential stressors.

To treat tissue recession, I first address any environmental issues. Then, I perform a gentle iodine dip (following product instructions carefully) to help prevent bacterial infection. Some hobbyists have success with targeted antibiotic treatments, but I prefer to avoid these unless absolutely necessary. Maintaining pristine water quality and target feeding often helps the coral recover naturally.

Brown jelly disease is a nightmare scenario that can destroy a Lobo coral within days. It appears as a brown, gelatinous substance on the coral's tissue. If you spot this, immediate action is crucial. Remove the coral from the display tank, rinse it with tank water, and use a soft brush to gently remove all visible brown jelly. Follow up with an iodine dip and consider fragging away affected areas if the infection is localized.

Bleaching occurs when the coral expels its zooxanthellae, usually due to stress from intense lighting, temperature fluctuations, or parameter swings. A bleached Lobo coral appears white or very pale. To address this, reduce lighting intensity immediately and ensure all parameters are stable. With patience and proper care, the coral can regain its zooxanthellae and color over several weeks to months.

Color loss without bleaching is different and often relates to nutrient levels. If your Lobo coral becomes dull or brown while still appearing healthy, check nitrate and phosphate levels. These corals actually prefer slightly elevated nutrients - running too clean can cause color loss. I've restored color to many dull Lobophyllia by slightly increasing feeding and allowing nutrients to rise within acceptable ranges.

Failure to expand is usually a flow issue, though it can also indicate parameter problems or harassment from tank inhabitants. Check that flow isn't too strong and that no fish or invertebrates are picking at the coral. Sometimes, hermit crabs or snails irritate the coral by walking across it repeatedly.

Fragging Lobophyllia: A Delicate Process

Fragging Lobo corals is possible but challenging, and I only recommend it for experienced hobbyists. These corals have a unique growth pattern that makes fragging more difficult than many other LPS species. The large, fleshy polyps and brain-like structure mean you need to be extremely careful to avoid tissue damage.

I only frag Lobo corals when absolutely necessary - either to save a partially dying colony or when a healthy colony has grown large enough that fragging won't significantly impact the mother colony. Never attempt to frag a stressed or recovering coral, as this will likely result in the death of both pieces.

The process requires specific tools: a diamond blade band saw works best, though a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel can work for smaller operations. Always use running saltwater to cool the cutting area and flush away debris. I set up a small container with a pump circulating tank water for this purpose.

When cutting, identify natural separation points between the polyps' valleys. Cut through these areas rather than through the raised polyp tissue. Make swift, decisive cuts to minimize stress. The exposed skeleton will be bright white - this is normal and will be covered by tissue as the coral heals.

After fragging, I dip both pieces in an iodine solution to prevent infection. Then, I place the frags in a low-flow area with moderate lighting. Don't glue them immediately - let them heal for at least a week before attempting to mount them permanently. During this healing period, maintain perfect water quality and avoid feeding for the first few days.

Success rates for Lobo coral fragging vary, but in my experience, about 70% of properly executed frags survive and thrive. The key is patience and not rushing the process. It can take 2-3 months for a frag to fully heal and begin showing normal growth patterns.

Selecting and Buying Lobo Coral

Choosing a healthy Lobo coral is crucial for long-term success. I've learned to be extremely selective when purchasing these corals, as they're prone to shipping stress and can deteriorate quickly if not handled properly.

When selecting a specimen, examine the tissue carefully. It should be fully inflated and cover the entire skeleton with no exposed white areas. Even small areas of recession can be problematic, as they often continue to worsen despite your best efforts. The tissue should appear plump and healthy, not stretched thin over the skeleton.

Color isn't everything, but it can indicate health. While brown specimens can be perfectly healthy and might color up in your tank, vibrant colors suggest the coral has been well-maintained. However, be wary of corals that appear unnaturally bright under white light - some vendors use excessive blue lighting to enhance apparent coloration.

I strongly prefer Australian specimens over Indonesian ones, despite the higher cost. Australian Lobo corals typically ship better, adapt more readily to captivity, and display more stable coloration. They're collected using better practices and generally arrive in superior condition.

Ask about the coral's history. How long has it been in captivity? Has it been eating? What parameters has it been kept in? Reputable vendors will have this information. A coral that's been in captivity for several weeks and is actively feeding is far more likely to succeed than one that just arrived from overseas.

Consider starting with aquacultured specimens if available. While rare for Lobophyllia, aquacultured pieces are already adapted to tank conditions and typically more hardy. They might not have the wild colors initially, but they often develop beautiful coloration under proper care.

Inspect for pests before purchase. Lobo corals can harbor flatworms, nudibranchs, or other problematic hitchhikers. Look closely at the tissue and skeleton base. Any unusual spots, eggs, or movement should raise red flags. When you get the coral home, I always recommend a prophylactic dip regardless of the source.

Don't rush into buying the first Lobo coral you see. These are investment corals that require commitment. Take time to find a healthy specimen from a reputable source. The extra cost and wait for the right coral will pay off in long-term success and enjoyment.

Tank Mates and Compatibility

Choosing appropriate tank mates for Lobo corals requires careful consideration of both aggression levels and care requirements. As I mentioned earlier, these corals pack a surprising punch with their sweeper tentacles, so positioning relative to other corals is crucial.

Other LPS corals can work as tank mates if given adequate space. I've successfully kept Lobophyllia with hammer corals, torch corals, and frogspawn coral care guide specimens, though each needs its own territory. Plate corals and brain corals of different genera also make suitable neighbors when properly spaced.

SPS corals should be kept well away from Lobo corals. Not only will the Lobophyllia's sweepers damage SPS tissue, but the different care requirements make them challenging to keep in the same system. If you must mix them, place SPS corals significantly higher in the tank where they won't interact.

Soft corals generally coexist peacefully with Lobophyllia, though some leather corals can release toxins that might irritate LPS corals. I've had good success with zoanthids, mushrooms, and ricordea placed at safe distances. These corals also appreciate similar lighting and flow conditions.

Fish compatibility is generally good, though some species should be avoided. Angelfish, particularly larger species, may nip at Lobo coral tissue. Butterflyfish are absolutely off-limits as they'll devastate LPS corals. Triggers and puffers should also be avoided.

Safe fish choices include tangs, wrasses, gobies, and most clownfish. I've never had issues with these species bothering my Lobophyllia. Anthias and cardinals also make excellent tank mates. Just ensure your fish feeding doesn't create excessive nutrients that could affect coral health.

Invertebrate selection requires some consideration. While most cleanup crew members are safe, some hermit crabs can irritate the coral by walking across it frequently. I prefer smaller hermit species and ensure plenty of empty shells are available to prevent them from hunting for new homes near the coral.

Cleaner shrimp are excellent additions and will even clean parasites from the coral's surface. However, avoid arrow crabs and coral banded shrimp, which might pick at the coral's tissue. Emerald crabs are generally safe and help control nuisance algae.

Long-term Maintenance and Growth

Successfully maintaining Lobo corals long-term requires consistency and attention to detail. These corals grow slowly, adding perhaps an inch in diameter per year under optimal conditions, so patience is essential. The reward is a spectacular centerpiece coral that becomes more impressive with age.

Regular maintenance tasks include weekly parameter testing and adjustment, bi-weekly feeding, and monthly detailed health inspections. I photograph my Lobophyllia monthly to track growth and color changes. This documentation helps identify problems early and adjust care accordingly.

Detritus management is crucial. While Lobo corals can handle some detritus settlement, excessive accumulation can lead to tissue irritation and recession. I use a turkey baster weekly to gently blow detritus off the coral's surface, being careful not to damage the tissue.

Calcium and alkalinity consumption increases as the coral grows. What started as minimal supplementation might eventually require daily dosing or a calcium reactor. Monitor these parameters closely and adjust your supplementation method as needed.

Every few months, I reassess the coral's placement. As it grows, it might need more space or slightly adjusted flow patterns. Growth might also change the coral's lighting needs - what was perfect placement initially might become too bright or too dim as the coral develops.

Watch for seasonal changes in your coral's behavior and appearance. Many Lobo corals show enhanced coloration during certain times of year, often correlating with temperature changes or photoperiod adjustments. Understanding these patterns helps differentiate normal variations from problems.

Consider the coral's reproductive behavior. Mature Lobo corals might release eggs or sperm during spawning events, typically following full moons. This is normal and indicates a healthy, mature coral. The water might become cloudy temporarily, but this clears quickly with proper filtration.

Species-Specific Considerations

While general care guidelines apply to all Lobophyllia species, understanding species-specific traits can improve your success rate. Each species has slightly different preferences and characteristics worth noting.

Lobophyllia hemprichii is the most common and arguably the hardiest species. It typically displays red, orange, and green coloration and tolerates a wider range of conditions than other species. This makes it ideal for hobbyists new to keeping Lobo corals. It also tends to be the most aggressive, with longer sweeper tentacles.

Lobophyllia hataii features more pronounced ridges and valleys with often striking color contrasts. This species prefers slightly lower light than L. hemprichii and can be more sensitive to parameter fluctuations. However, it often displays the most vibrant colors, making it highly sought after.

Lobophyllia corymbosa has a more compact growth form with smaller polyps. It's generally less aggressive than other species, making it easier to place in mixed reef tanks. This species often shows beautiful rainbow coloration under proper lighting.

Lobophyllia rowleyensis is less common in the trade but worth seeking out. It features uniquely shaped polyps and often displays unusual color combinations. This species seems to prefer slightly higher flow than others, though still within the moderate range.

Understanding your specific species helps fine-tune care parameters. While the differences are subtle, paying attention to these details can mean the difference between a surviving coral and a thriving showpiece.

Advanced Tips and Techniques

After years of keeping Lobo corals, I've developed several advanced techniques that can take your coral from surviving to thriving. These aren't necessary for basic care but can enhance growth, coloration, and overall coral health.

Amino acid supplementation has proven particularly effective for my Lobophyllia. I dose amino acids daily, following product recommendations but starting at quarter strength and gradually increasing. This seems to enhance the coral's natural coloration and improve tissue expansion. The results aren't immediate but become apparent over several months.

Trace element dosing, particularly iodine and potassium, benefits Lobo corals. I test these monthly and supplement as needed. Iodine seems particularly important for tissue health and recovery from minor damage. However, overdosing can be harmful, so careful testing is essential.

Creating a feeding station can improve feeding efficiency. I use a small piece of PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise, placed near the coral during feeding. This creates a barrier that keeps food near the coral while flow is off, reducing waste and ensuring the coral captures more food.

Implementing a refugium with macroalgae helps maintain the slightly elevated nutrient levels that Lobo corals prefer while still controlling nuisance algae. The refugium also provides a source of beneficial microfauna that the coral can capture.

Consider moon lighting for natural behavior. I run dim blue LEDs at night to simulate moonlight. This seems to encourage more natural feeding behavior and might play a role in reproductive cycles. Plus, watching the coral hunt at night under moonlight is fascinating.

Quarantine new additions religiously. Lobo corals are susceptible to various pests and diseases that can spread to your established colony. I quarantine all new corals for at least 4 weeks, treating prophylactically for common pests.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Caring for Lobo corals represents one of the more challenging yet rewarding aspects of reef keeping. These magnificent LPS corals demand attention to detail, stable conditions, and patience, but they reward dedicated aquarists with stunning colors, fascinating feeding behaviors, and impressive long-term growth.

Throughout this guide, I've shared the techniques and knowledge I've accumulated over years of keeping Lobophyllia species. From the critical importance of spacing and aggression management to the nuances of feeding and troubleshooting common problems, success with these corals comes down to understanding and meeting their specific needs.

Remember that every tank is different, and what works perfectly in my system might need adjustment in yours. Use this guide as a foundation, but don't be afraid to make minor modifications based on your coral's response. The coral itself is your best teacher - observe it daily, note changes, and adjust care accordingly.

If you're on the fence about trying a Lobo coral, I encourage you to take the plunge if you have the experience and stable system to support it. Start with a hardy L. hemprichii specimen, follow the guidelines in this article, and be patient. The sight of a fully expanded Lobophyllia hunting at night or displaying its vibrant colors under your reef lights makes all the effort worthwhile.

Success with Lobo corals doesn't happen overnight. It requires dedication, consistent care, and sometimes learning from mistakes. But for those willing to put in the effort, these corals become centerpiece specimens that draw admiration from every visitor to your reef tank. With proper care, your Lobo coral will thrive for years, growing more impressive with each passing season.