If you've been in the marine aquarium hobby for any time, you've likely heard about mysis shrimp - those tiny crustaceans that seahorse keepers swear by and finicky fish seem to love. But what exactly are these creatures that go by so many names? Whether you call them mysis, mysid, or opossum shrimp, we're diving deep into everything you need to know about these fascinating organisms.
I first encountered mysis shrimp when struggling to feed a particularly picky mandarin dragonet. After trying various foods without success, frozen mysis shrimp finally got this stubborn fish eating regularly. Since then, I've become fascinated by these tiny crustaceans - not just as aquarium food, but as complex organisms with an interesting ecological story.
In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore the biology of mysis shrimp, their role in aquarium nutrition, how to use them effectively, and even touch on the environmental considerations that many aquarists don't know about. We'll clear up the confusion between different species names and give you practical advice based on both scientific research and real aquarium experience.
What Are Mysis Shrimp? Understanding These Unique Crustaceans
Mysis shrimp belong to the order Mysida, a group of small, shrimp-like crustaceans that aren't actually true shrimp at all. The name "opossum shrimp" comes from the distinctive brood pouch (marsupium) that females use to carry their developing young - similar to how opossums carry their babies. This unique feature sets them apart from true shrimp species you might be familiar with in the aquarium hobby.
These crustaceans typically measure between 0.4 to 1.2 inches (10-30mm) in length, making them perfect prey size for many aquarium fish. Their translucent bodies have a distinctive appearance, with prominent eyes on stalks and a segmented body that curves slightly. Unlike many other small crustaceans used as fish food, mysis shrimp have a more substantial body structure that provides better nutritional value.
The scientific classification can get confusing, especially with recent taxonomic changes. What many aquarists call "Mysis relicta" has been reclassified as Mysis diluviana in North American freshwater environments. Meanwhile, marine species like Americamysis bahia (formerly Mysidopsis bahia) are commonly used in aquaculture. Understanding these distinctions helps when researching specific information about the mysis shrimp you're using.
In their natural habitat, mysis shrimp exhibit fascinating behavior called diel vertical migration. They spend daylight hours near the bottom in deeper, darker waters, then migrate upward at night to feed on zooplankton and phytoplankton. This behavior has important implications for their nutritional content, as we'll discuss later.
The Ecological Story: From Natural Habitats to Aquarium Food
The story of mysis shrimp in North American lakes provides an important lesson in ecological management. During the 1960s and 1970s, fisheries managers introduced mysis shrimp to over 100 lakes across North America, hoping to boost salmon and trout populations. The logic seemed sound - add more food for the fish, get bigger and more abundant fish populations.
However, the results were often opposite to what was intended. In Lake Tahoe, for example, the introduction of Mysis diluviana led to unexpected ecological cascades. The mysis competed with young fish for zooplankton food sources and their vertical migration pattern meant they were often unavailable to the fish they were meant to feed. This led to declines in native fish populations and changes in water clarity due to altered plankton communities.
Research from UC Davis Tahoe Environmental Research Center has documented these impacts extensively. The mysis introduction contributed to changes in the lake's famous clarity, as the shrimp consumed zooplankton that would normally eat algae. This ecological domino effect demonstrates how introducing non-native species, even as fish food, can have far-reaching consequences.
For the aquarium trade, most mysis shrimp come from controlled aquaculture operations rather than wild harvest. Marine species like Americamysis bahia are cultured specifically for aquarium use, ensuring sustainable supply without impacting wild populations. Frozen mysis shrimp products typically come from these cultured sources or from areas where mysis are already established and harvested under regulated conditions.
Understanding this ecological background helps aquarists make informed decisions. While using cultured or responsibly harvested mysis shrimp in closed aquarium systems poses no ecological risk, it's important to never release any aquarium organisms into natural waterways.
Species Variations: Know Your Mysis
Not all mysis shrimp are the same, and understanding the differences between species can help you choose the best option for your aquarium needs. The confusion often starts with the various names used interchangeably in the aquarium trade.
Mysis diluviana (Freshwater Mysis) - Previously known as Mysis relicta, this is the freshwater species found in deep lakes across North America. These are the mysis involved in the ecological studies mentioned earlier. They're cold-water adapted, preferring temperatures between 39-50°F (4-10°C). When frozen for aquarium use, they provide excellent nutrition due to their natural diet and fatty acid profile.
Americamysis bahia (Marine Mysis) - This marine species is commonly cultured for aquarium use. They're more tolerant of temperature variations and salinity changes than their freshwater cousins. These are often what you're getting when you buy live mysis shrimp cultures for marine aquariums. They thrive in temperatures between 68-86°F (20-30°C), making them suitable for typical marine aquarium conditions.
Neomysis mercedis (Delta Opossum Shrimp) - Found in estuarine environments, these mysis can tolerate a wide range of salinities. They're less common in the aquarium trade but are sometimes available frozen. Their ability to handle brackish conditions makes them interesting for certain specialized aquarium setups.
The nutritional differences between species are subtle but worth noting. Freshwater mysis from cold, deep lakes tend to have higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids, particularly EPA and DHA, due to their diet of cold-water plankton. Marine species cultured in warmer conditions may have slightly different fatty acid profiles but are often enriched during culture to optimize their nutritional value.
Size also varies between species. Mysis diluviana typically reaches 15-25mm, while Americamysis bahia stays smaller at 8-12mm. This size difference can matter when feeding smaller fish or juvenile seahorses that need appropriately sized food.
Nutritional Powerhouse: Why Fish Love Mysis Shrimp
The nutritional profile of mysis shrimp explains why they're considered premium aquarium food. Unlike brine shrimp (Artemia), which are essentially "empty calories" unless enriched, mysis shrimp naturally contain high levels of proteins, lipids, and essential fatty acids that marine fish need for optimal health.
A typical nutritional analysis of frozen mysis shrimp shows approximately 70% protein, 10% fat, and 5% ash (minerals) on a dry weight basis. But the real value lies in the quality of these nutrients. The protein contains all essential amino acids in proportions that closely match what marine fish require. This complete amino acid profile supports proper growth, tissue repair, and immune function.
The fatty acid composition is particularly impressive. Mysis shrimp contain significant amounts of EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) - omega-3 fatty acids crucial for fish health. These fatty acids support proper nervous system development, enhance coloration, improve breeding success, and boost immune response. Typical levels range from 15-25% of total fatty acids, depending on the species and their diet.
Mysis shrimp also provide important carotenoid pigments, particularly astaxanthin, which enhances the red and orange coloration in fish. This natural pigmentation is far superior to artificial color enhancers and contributes to overall fish health as carotenoids also function as antioxidants.
The chitin in mysis shrimp exoskeletons provides dietary fiber that aids digestion in fish. While fish can't digest chitin directly, it helps move food through the digestive system and may support beneficial gut bacteria. This is particularly important for fish prone to digestive issues or constipation.
Vitamin content includes significant levels of vitamin C, vitamin E, and B-complex vitamins. These vitamins support immune function, act as antioxidants, and are essential for metabolic processes. Unlike some frozen foods that lose vitamins during processing, properly frozen mysis shrimp retain most of their vitamin content.
Frozen vs. Live Mysis: Making the Right Choice
The debate between frozen and live mysis shrimp comes up frequently among aquarists. Both have their place, and understanding the pros and cons helps you make the best choice for your specific situation.
Frozen Mysis Advantages: Frozen mysis shrimp offer convenience and consistency that's hard to beat. They're readily available at most aquarium stores, have a long shelf life when properly stored, and provide consistent nutrition. The flash-freezing process preserves most nutrients, and there's no risk of introducing parasites or diseases to your tank. Frozen mysis are also typically less expensive than maintaining live cultures.
Quality frozen mysis are usually frozen within hours of harvest, locking in nutrients at their peak. Modern freezing techniques minimize cellular damage, preserving the structure and nutritional value. Some premium brands even offer enriched frozen mysis, fortified with additional vitamins or omega-3 fatty acids.
Live Mysis Advantages: Live mysis shrimp trigger stronger feeding responses in many fish due to their movement. For finicky eaters or newly imported fish, the motion of live food can be the key to getting them eating. Live mysis also provide behavioral enrichment, allowing predatory fish to exhibit natural hunting behaviors.
Nutritionally, live mysis can be gut-loaded before feeding, adding extra nutrition by feeding them enriched foods. The enzymatic activity in live food may aid in digestion for some fish species. However, maintaining live cultures requires significant effort, space, and expertise.
The challenges of live mysis cultures include temperature requirements (most need cooler temperatures than typical reef tanks), water quality management, feeding the culture, and the risk of crashes that leave you without food for your fish. Unless you're breeding fish or keeping obligate live-food eaters, frozen mysis usually provides the best balance of nutrition and convenience.
For most aquarists, I recommend high-quality frozen mysis as the staple, with occasional live mysis treats if available. This provides excellent nutrition while avoiding the complexities of live culture maintenance.
Feeding Guidelines: How to Use Mysis Shrimp Effectively
Proper feeding technique makes a significant difference in how well your fish utilize mysis shrimp. After years of feeding various species, I've developed methods that maximize nutrition while minimizing waste and water quality issues.
Thawing Frozen Mysis: Never add frozen mysis directly to your tank. Rapid thawing in tank water can rupture cell walls, causing nutrients to leach out. Instead, place the desired amount in a small container with a bit of cool tank water. Let it thaw gradually over 5-10 minutes. Once thawed, you can strain the liquid (which contains valuable nutrients) and either use it for coral feeding or discard if you're concerned about water quality.
Some aquarists rinse thawed mysis to remove phosphates and potential pollutants. While this does reduce nutrients somewhat, it might be worth it in heavily stocked or sensitive systems. If you rinse, use RO/DI water or tank water, not tap water.
Portion Control: Feed only what your fish can consume in 2-3 minutes. Mysis shrimp are nutrient-dense, so fish need less volume compared to lower-quality foods. For reference, a small marine community tank (30-50 gallons) typically needs only 1/4 to 1/2 cube of frozen mysis per feeding.
Target Feeding: For shy or slow feeders, use a turkey baster or feeding pipette to deliver mysis directly to them. This ensures all fish get their share and reduces competition. Turn off powerheads briefly during feeding to prevent food from being blown into overflow or behind rocks where it will decay.
Feeding Frequency: Most marine fish do well with mysis shrimp 2-3 times per week as part of a varied diet. Seahorses and pipefish need mysis multiple times daily due to their lack of stomach and rapid digestion. Young fish benefit from smaller, more frequent feedings rather than large meals.
Special Considerations for Different Fish:
Seahorses require special attention when feeding mysis. They need 3-4 feedings daily, consuming 30-50 mysis shrimp per day for adults. Ensure mysis are appropriately sized - newly independent seahorse fry need very small mysids or even copepods before graduating to adult mysis.
Mandarin dragonets often need target feeding in community tanks. Once they learn to take frozen mysis, feed them twice daily in a quiet corner of the tank where they won't be outcompeted.
Anthias and other planktivorous fish prefer mysis suspended in the water column. Add flow during feeding to keep mysis moving, mimicking natural plankton drift.
Breeding and Culturing Mysis Shrimp: The Advanced Challenge
Culturing mysis shrimp at home represents one of the more challenging aspects of live food production. Unlike brine shrimp or copepods, mysis have specific requirements that make home culture difficult but not impossible for dedicated aquarists.
The main challenges stem from their complex life cycle and environmental needs. Mysis shrimp have direct development - they don't go through a larval stage like brine shrimp. Young are released as miniature versions of adults, but they're extremely small and require tiny foods like rotifers or specially prepared feeds.
Setting Up a Mysis Culture System: Successful mysis culture requires a dedicated system separate from display tanks. A 20-40 gallon tank works for small-scale culture. The system needs excellent filtration - a mature sponge filter provides biological filtration without creating dangerous suction. Temperature control is critical; most cultured species need 68-75°F (20-24°C), cooler than typical reef temperatures.
Water quality parameters must remain stable. For marine species like Americamysis bahia, maintain salinity at 20-25 ppt (lower than full seawater), pH 8.0-8.3, ammonia and nitrite at zero, and nitrates below 20ppm. Weekly 25% water changes help maintain quality.
Feeding the Culture: Mysis cultures require multiple feedings daily with a variety of foods. Newly hatched Artemia nauplii provide excellent nutrition for adult mysis. Supplement with phytoplankton (live or quality preserved products), finely ground flake food, and specially formulated mysis culture feeds if available.
Feed small amounts 2-3 times daily. Overfeeding crashes cultures faster than almost any other mistake. Watch for uneaten food accumulating and adjust accordingly. Young mysis need even smaller foods - infusoria, rotifers, or commercial invertebrate foods designed for filter feeders.
Culture Management: Maintain culture density at 5-10 mysis per liter for optimal production. Higher densities stress the shrimp and reduce reproduction. Harvest regularly to prevent overcrowding - remove 25-30% weekly once the culture is established.
Separating adults from juveniles improves survival rates. Use a series of mesh screens with different sizes to sort mysis by age. This prevents adults from competing with juveniles for food and space.
Common Culture Problems: Culture crashes happen even to experienced culturists. Common causes include temperature spikes (mysis are very temperature sensitive), oxygen depletion from overfeeding, ammonia spikes from dead mysis, bacterial blooms, or introduction of predators like hydra.
If considering mysis culture, start with easier live foods like brine shrimp or copepods first. The skills you develop will transfer to mysis culture. Most aquarists find that purchasing frozen mysis provides better value than the time and effort required for successful culture.
Environmental and Ethical Considerations
As responsible aquarists, understanding the environmental implications of our hobby choices matters. The mysis shrimp story offers important lessons about ecosystem management and the unintended consequences of species introductions.
The widespread introduction of mysis to North American lakes in the mid-20th century seemed scientifically sound at the time. Fisheries managers hoped to enhance sport fish populations by adding this high-quality food source. However, the results often contradicted expectations. In Lake Tahoe, Flathead Lake, and many other water bodies, mysis introductions led to decreased water clarity, altered food webs, and declining native fish populations.
These introductions teach us that ecosystems are complex, interconnected systems where adding one element can trigger cascading changes. The vertical migration behavior of mysis meant they avoided predation by staying deep during daylight when visual predators feed most actively. They competed with juvenile fish for zooplankton prey, sometimes causing recruitment failures in fish populations they were meant to enhance.
For the aquarium hobby, these lessons emphasize the importance of never releasing any organisms into natural waters. Even frozen food should be disposed of properly - never flush thawed food or water from frozen food down drains that lead to natural water bodies.
The aquarium trade has responded responsibly to environmental concerns. Most mysis shrimp sold for aquarium use now come from aquaculture operations that don't impact wild populations. Some suppliers harvest from lakes where mysis are already established as invasive species, potentially providing minor control benefits.
When choosing mysis products, look for suppliers that provide information about their sourcing. Responsible companies will indicate whether their product is cultured or wild-harvested, and from what regions. Supporting sustainable practices ensures the long-term availability of these valuable foods while minimizing environmental impact.
Mysis Shrimp vs. Other Aquarium Foods: Making Comparisons
Understanding how mysis shrimp compare to other common aquarium foods helps in developing balanced feeding programs. Each food type has its place, and variety remains key to optimal fish health.
Mysis vs. Brine Shrimp (Artemia): Adult brine shrimp are larger than mysis but nutritionally inferior unless enriched. Brine shrimp are essentially bags of water with minimal nutritional value. They contain about 60% protein but lack significant omega-3 fatty acids. Mysis provide 70% protein plus substantial EPA and DHA. For nutrition, mysis win decisively. However, brine shrimp are easier to culture at home and newly hatched Artemia nauplii are excellent for fish fry.
Mysis vs. Copepods: Copepods offer excellent nutrition with high omega-3 content, particularly certain species like Calanus. They're smaller than mysis, making them suitable for smaller fish and fish larvae. Live copepods can establish reproducing populations in reef tanks, providing continuous food. However, they're more expensive than mysis and harvesting enough for larger fish is impractical. Use both - copepods for small fish and continuous feeding, mysis for larger fish and primary nutrition.
Mysis vs. Krill: Krill are larger than mysis (typically 1-2 inches vs 0.5-1 inch) and provide similar excellent nutrition. Both are rich in omega-3s and astaxanthin. Krill work better for larger predatory fish that need bigger food items. Mysis suit a wider range of fish sizes. Nutritionally, they're comparable, so choose based on fish size requirements.
Mysis vs. Marine Pellets: Quality marine pellets provide complete nutrition with consistent quality and convenience. They won't pollute water as quickly as frozen foods and have longer shelf life. However, many fish show stronger feeding responses to mysis due to shape, texture, and possibly taste. Mysis also provide behavioral enrichment through more natural feeding. Combine both - pellets for daily nutrition, mysis for variety and enrichment.
Mysis vs. Fresh Seafood: Some aquarists feed fresh shrimp, squid, or fish from the grocery store. While these provide good protein, they lack the complete nutritional profile of whole mysis shrimp. Grocery seafood doesn't contain the gut contents that provide vitamins and enzymes. It may also introduce pathogens not present in frozen aquarium foods. Mysis shrimp are safer and more nutritionally complete.
Troubleshooting Common Mysis Feeding Issues
Even with quality food like mysis shrimp, feeding challenges arise. Here's how to address common problems based on experience and community feedback.
Fish Won't Eat Mysis: Some fish, particularly wild-caught specimens, may initially refuse frozen foods. Start by offering live mysis if available to trigger feeding response. Gradually mix frozen with live over several feedings. Try different brands - some fish prefer certain types. Soak mysis in garlic extract or vitamin supplements to increase palatability. Fast the fish for 2-3 days then offer mysis when they're hungry. Mix mysis with foods they already accept.
Mysis Falling Apart: Poor quality or improperly stored mysis disintegrate when thawed. Buy from reputable suppliers with good turnover. Check packaging date and avoid old stock. Store at consistent temperature in the coldest part of your freezer. Never refreeze thawed mysis. Thaw gently in cool water, not warm. Consider switching brands if the problem persists.
Water Quality Issues After Feeding: Overfeeding mysis can cause ammonia spikes or phosphate accumulation. Feed smaller amounts more frequently rather than large portions. Rinse thawed mysis if phosphates are concerning. Remove uneaten food after 5 minutes. Ensure adequate filtration and flow. Consider adding cleanup crew members that consume leftover food. Test water regularly when establishing feeding routines.
Aggressive Competition During Feeding: In community tanks, aggressive feeders may prevent shy fish from eating. Use multiple feeding stations simultaneously. Target feed shy fish with a turkey baster. Feed aggressive fish first at one end of tank, then target feed others. Consider feeding shy fish after lights out when some aggressive species are less active. In extreme cases, temporary dividers during feeding might be necessary.
Storage and Spoilage Concerns: Mysis can spoil if improperly handled. Keep frozen until ready to use. Thaw only what you'll use immediately. Don't leave thawed mysis at room temperature. If mysis smell strongly of ammonia or look discolored, discard them. Use within 6 months for best quality. Rotate stock, using oldest first.
Species-Specific Feeding Strategies
Different fish species have evolved specific feeding strategies, and understanding these helps optimize mysis feeding for various tank inhabitants. Based on research and experience with numerous species, here are targeted approaches.
Seahorses and Pipefish: These specialized feeders require consistent mysis availability. Adult seahorses consume 30-50 mysis daily, while pipefish eat 20-30. They feed best on mysis that sink slowly through the water column. Create feeding stations using small dishes or turkey basters to concentrate food. Many keepers successfully train seahorses to eat from feeding dishes, reducing waste. Young seahorses need enriched mysis for proper development - look for products fortified with omega-3s.
Mandarins and Dragonets: These methodical hunters examine surfaces for small prey. They often need time to recognize frozen mysis as food. Start by placing thawed mysis on live rock where they naturally hunt. Once they're taking frozen food, establish regular feeding spots. Many mandarins learn to come to specific areas at feeding time. Mix mysis with live copepods initially to encourage feeding response.
Anthias and Chromis: These planktivores prefer food in the water column. Broadcast feed mysis with pumps running to keep food suspended. Feed small amounts multiple times rather than one large feeding. These fish have high metabolisms and need frequent feeding. Watch for individuals hanging back - they may need target feeding to maintain condition.
Dwarf Angels and Tangs: While primarily herbivores, these fish benefit from mysis supplementation. Offer mysis 2-3 times weekly alongside their regular algae-based diet. The protein supports growth and color. Some keepers mix chopped mysis into homemade foods with nori and other ingredients.
Predatory Fish (Lionfish, Groupers, Eels): These hunters might ignore small mysis initially. Use feeding tongs to wiggle mysis, simulating live prey. Gradually they learn to take stationary food. Larger predators might need multiple mysis or mysis mixed with larger foods like silversides. Feed less frequently but larger portions - typically 2-3 times weekly.
The Future of Mysis in Aquaculture
Current research and development in mysis cultivation promises improvements in availability and sustainability. Several initiatives focus on optimizing culture techniques for aquarium trade supply without environmental impact.
Selective breeding programs work to develop mysis strains that culture more easily at higher temperatures, reducing the cooling requirements that make home culture challenging. These programs also select for higher nutritional content, particularly omega-3 fatty acids and carotenoids.
Research into mysis nutrition requirements has led to better culture feeds, improving growth rates and nutritional profiles. Some facilities now produce mysis with customized nutrition profiles for specific applications, such as extra-enriched mysis for seahorse breeding operations.
Sustainability efforts include developing closed-loop systems where mysis culture water gets recycled through treatment processes, reducing environmental impact. Some operations integrate mysis culture with other aquaculture, using waste products from fish farming to feed mysis cultures.
Biotechnology applications explore using mysis as delivery systems for probiotics, medications, or specific nutrients. This could allow targeted delivery of beneficial compounds to fish through their regular food.
Alternative sourcing investigates harvesting mysis from waters where they're invasive, potentially providing ecological benefits while supplying the aquarium trade. However, this requires careful management to ensure consistency and avoid depleting populations that native ecosystems have adapted to.
Related Shrimp Species in the Aquarium Hobby
While mysis shrimp serve primarily as food, other shrimp species play different roles in aquariums. Understanding these relationships helps build comprehensive aquarium ecosystems. For those interested in keeping ornamental shrimp, our ghost shrimp care guide covers one of the most versatile species for both freshwater community tanks and as occasional live food.
The vibrant cherry shrimp guide explores these popular ornamental shrimp that add color and algae control to planted tanks. Unlike mysis, cherry shrimp establish breeding colonies easily, providing insights into shrimp reproduction that contrasts with the challenges of mysis culture.
For those seeking a middle ground between ornamental and feeder shrimp, our whisker shrimp care article discusses these active scavengers. Whisker shrimp demonstrate the diversity within freshwater shrimp species and their various ecological roles.
Frequently Asked Questions About Mysis Shrimp
Can mysis shrimp live in my aquarium permanently?
Live mysis shrimp typically cannot establish permanent populations in standard marine aquariums. They require cooler temperatures (60-75°F) than most reef tanks maintain (76-82°F). Additionally, they need specific planktonic foods and are quickly consumed by fish. Some cold-water marine systems might support small populations, but don't expect them to breed successfully in typical aquarium conditions.
How long do frozen mysis shrimp last in the freezer?
Properly stored frozen mysis maintain best quality for 6-8 months but remain safe much longer. Keep them at consistent freezer temperature (0°F or below) and avoid repeated thawing. Quality indicators include color (should remain pale pink/white), smell (mild ocean scent, not ammonia), and texture (individual shrimp visible, not a solid mass). Date packages when purchasing and rotate stock.
Are mysis shrimp better than vitamin-enriched pellets?
Neither is definitively "better" - they serve different purposes. Quality pellets provide complete, consistent nutrition with convenience. Mysis offer natural feeding stimulus, behavioral enrichment, and nutrients in natural form. The ideal approach combines both: pellets for baseline nutrition and mysis for variety and enrichment. Many successful aquarists use pellets daily with mysis 2-3 times weekly.
Why are mysis shrimp more expensive than brine shrimp?
Several factors contribute to higher mysis prices. They're more difficult to culture, requiring specific temperatures and foods. They grow slower than brine shrimp and have lower reproduction rates. Harvesting and processing require more careful handling to maintain quality. The superior nutritional value justifies the cost for most aquarists - you feed less volume for better results.
Can freshwater fish eat mysis shrimp?
Yes, many freshwater fish eagerly accept mysis shrimp. Large tetras, cichlids, and predatory species particularly benefit. Freshwater mysis (Mysis diluviana) are naturally from freshwater, containing no excess salt. Even marine mysis can be fed after thorough rinsing. The high protein and omega-3 content benefits freshwater fish just as it does marine species.
How do I transition wild-caught fish to frozen mysis?
Start with live foods if possible, then gradually introduce frozen. Mix tiny amounts of thawed mysis with live foods they're already eating. Slowly increase the frozen proportion over 1-2 weeks. Soaking mysis in garlic extract or selcon can increase palatability. Feed when fish are hungriest (morning for diurnal species). Some fish respond better to mysis moved with feeding tongs to simulate live prey.
What's the difference between PE (Piscine Energetics) mysis and other brands?
PE Mysis, harvested from Canadian freshwater lakes, contains higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids due to the cold-water environment and natural diet. They're typically larger than cultured marine mysis. Other quality brands like Hikari and San Francisco Bay offer different species or processing methods. Try various brands as some fish show preferences. All reputable brands provide good nutrition.
Should I rinse frozen mysis before feeding?
This depends on your system's sensitivity to nutrients. Rinsing removes some dissolved organics and phosphates but also removes beneficial nutrients. For heavily stocked or algae-prone systems, rinsing might help. For systems with good nutrient export, the extra nutrition benefits fish and corals. If you rinse, use RO/DI or tank water, never tap water containing chlorine.
How many mysis shrimp should I feed per fish?
This varies dramatically by species and size. Small fish (gobies, small wrasses) might eat 5-10 mysis per feeding. Medium fish (tangs, angels) consume 15-30. Large predators might need 50+. Seahorses require 30-50 daily. Start conservatively and increase based on consumption within 3 minutes. Fish should show slight belly roundness after feeding without looking bloated.
Can I culture mysis shrimp outdoors?
Outdoor culture in ponds or tanks is possible in appropriate climates but presents challenges. Temperature fluctuations stress mysis more than other cultured foods. Predator exclusion is essential - many insects and their larvae consume mysis. Outdoor systems work best in consistently cool climates with stable temperatures. Most successful cultures use controlled indoor environments for reliability.
Conclusion: Making the Most of Mysis Shrimp
Mysis shrimp have earned their reputation as one of the premium foods in the aquarium hobby. Their exceptional nutritional profile, particularly the high levels of omega-3 fatty acids and complete proteins, makes them invaluable for maintaining healthy, vibrant fish. From finicky seahorses to aggressive predators, mysis shrimp provide nutrition that supports growth, coloration, and breeding success.
We've explored the complex story of these fascinating crustaceans - from their ecological impact when introduced to new environments to their cultivation for sustainable aquarium use. Understanding this background helps us make informed choices about sourcing and using mysis responsibly. The lessons learned from mysis introductions remind us of our responsibility to prevent any aquarium organisms from entering natural waterways.
For practical application, remember that quality matters when selecting mysis products. Choose reputable suppliers, store properly, and handle with care to maintain nutritional value. While frozen mysis provide the best balance of nutrition and convenience for most aquarists, those with specialized needs might explore live culture despite its challenges.
The comparison with other foods shows that mysis shrimp fill a unique niche - more nutritious than brine shrimp, more practical than live copepods for many applications, and offering natural feeding stimulation that pellets can't match. Incorporating mysis into a varied diet provides the best outcomes for fish health.
As research continues and culture techniques improve, we can expect better availability and potentially new applications for mysis in aquarium nutrition. Whether you're maintaining a simple fish-only system or a complex reef tank, understanding and properly utilizing mysis shrimp will contribute to your success in the hobby.
The key takeaway is that mysis shrimp aren't just another frozen food - they're a nutritionally superior option that, when used correctly, significantly enhances fish health and vitality. By following the guidelines we've discussed for selection, storage, preparation, and feeding, you'll maximize the benefits these remarkable little crustaceans provide to your aquarium inhabitants.
