Sleeping Bag Types Explained: Choose Right for 2026

By: Asher Stone
Updated: July 21, 2026

Last updated: 2026  |  Reviewed by Marcus Caldwell, 15 years of camping experience across four continents, including two winter Denali expeditions.

Walk into any outdoor retailer in 2026 and you'll face an overwhelming wall of bags in every shape, color, and temperature rating imaginable. Picking the right one used to require insider knowledge, but the decision really comes down to three core questions: where are you camping, how cold will it get, and how much weight can you carry. The rest is detail.

Sleeping bag types fall into two main buckets: shape (how the bag wraps around you) and insulation (what's inside the bag). Mastering those two categories is the fastest path to a warm, comfortable night outdoors. In this guide, I'll walk you through all five primary sleeping bag shapes, the down versus synthetic insulation debate, how to decode temperature ratings in both Fahrenheit and Celsius, and the often-overlooked accessories that turn a good bag into a reliable sleep system.

At a Glance: The 5 Main Types of Sleeping Bags

  • Mummy Bags – Tapered, hooded, lightweight design that traps heat efficiently for cold and backpacking use.
  • Rectangular Bags – Roomy traditional shape that doubles as a comforter; ideal for car camping and warm nights.
  • Semi-Rectangular Bags – A balanced hybrid offering mummy warmth with rectangular comfort; the most versatile shape.
  • Double Sleeping Bags – Oversized two-person bags built for couples and family camping.
  • Sleeping Bag Quilts – Open-bottom blankets that strap to your sleeping pad; favorites of ultralight backpackers.

5 Main Types of Sleeping Bags

The sleeping bag types you'll encounter at every price point cluster around these five shapes. Each excels in a specific camping scenario, and most experienced campers end up owning more than one for different trips.

  1. Mummy Bags – Tapered design with an integrated hood. Minimizes air space, maximizes warmth-to-weight ratio. Best for cold weather and serious backpacking.
  2. Rectangular Bags – Roomy, hoodless, and versatile. Spreads out flat as a comforter or zips into a traditional sleeping bag. Best for car camping and warm weather.
  3. Semi-Rectangular Bags – Also called barrel or modified mummy shapes. Combines warmth efficiency with shoulder room. Best all-rounder for mixed use.
  4. Double Sleeping Bags – Wide enough for two sleepers, either built as one unit or two bags that zip together. Best for couples and family trips.
  5. Sleeping Bag Quilts – Open-bottom blankets that drape over your sleeping pad. Best for ultralight backpackers and warm-weather thru-hikers.

Once you can identify each shape on sight, the rest of the buying process becomes a matter of matching the bag to your climate, budget, and trip style. The next section unpacks each shape in detail.

Sleeping Bag Shapes Explained

What Are Mummy Sleeping Bags?

Mummy bags wrap tightly around your body like a cocoon, leaving just enough room to shift positions. The hood cinches around your head with a drawcord, and the footbox narrows to barely wider than your feet. Every inch of that tapered geometry exists for one reason: to reduce the volume of air your body has to heat.

The efficiency advantage is significant. A well-fitted mummy bag can be rated 10 to 15 degrees warmer than a rectangular bag with the same amount of fill. On a sub-freezing trip in the Rockies, my 20°F mummy kept me comfortable when the thermometer hit 12°F. A rectangular bag with the same fill weight would have left me shivering.

Side sleepers and restless sleepers often dislike the restrictive feel. Modern brands address this with "spoon-shaped" mummy designs that widen at the elbows and knees while keeping the footbox tight. If you toss and turn, look for those.

What Are Rectangular Sleeping Bags?

Rectangular sleeping bags are the classic blanket-with-a-zipper design. No hood, no taper, no restrictions. Many unzip completely to lie flat as a comforter, and two rectangular bags with compatible zippers can be joined together to form a double bag.

The comfort comes at a thermal cost. All that internal volume means your body works harder to warm the surrounding air. Rectangular bags really shine on warm summer nights, in cabins where you don't need maximum insulation, and at family campsites where kids appreciate the room to sprawl.

They also pack bulky and heavy compared to mummy bags, which makes them a poor choice for backpacking. If you're primarily a car camper who values comfort over compactness, the rectangular shape is hard to beat. For practical guidance on joining two rectangular bags, see our guide on how to zip two sleeping bags together.

What Are Semi-Rectangular Sleeping Bags?

Semi-rectangular bags, sometimes called barrel or hybrid bags, blend the warmth of a mummy with the shoulder freedom of a rectangular shape. The hood is still present, but the torso and leg sections flare out more than a strict mummy would allow.

I recommend semi-rectangular bags to nearly every beginner I talk to. You sacrifice maybe 5 to 10 percent of thermal efficiency compared to a mummy, but you gain significantly more comfort. If you later decide to try backpacking, the weight penalty is usually only a few ounces.

Many newer semi-rectangular bags include thoughtful touches: a tapered footbox, a draft collar at the shoulders, and even extra room at the knees for side sleepers. They are the Swiss Army knife of the sleeping bag world.

What Are Double Sleeping Bags?

Double sleeping bags come in two flavors: oversized single-unit bags built for two, or pairs of compatible bags that zip together. Both aim to solve the same problem: sharing warmth with a partner without buying two separate setups.

The upside is real, especially on cool nights when shared body heat makes a huge difference. My partner and I used a single double bag for years of car camping and stayed toastier than we ever did in solo bags. The downsides are just as real, though. Every time one of you gets up to use the bathroom, the other loses a pocket of warm air. You also have to compromise on temperature preference, which can lead to arguments when one of you runs hot and the other cold.

Double bags are heavy, bulky, and strictly car-camping gear. For a deeper look at the mechanics of joining two bags, our step-by-step piece on zip two sleeping bags together covers zipper compatibility and setup.

What Are Sleeping Bag Quilts?

Sleeping bag quilts strip away everything your body doesn't need: zippers, hoods, and the bottom insulation that gets compressed under your weight anyway. What remains is essentially a toasty blanket that straps to your sleeping pad with elastic cords or a pad-attachment system.

Ultralight backpackers love quilts for the unmatched warmth-to-weight ratio. On my last thru-hike, switching from a 28-ounce mummy to a 19-ounce quilt saved nearly three-quarters of a pound in my pack without sacrificing a single degree of warmth. For trips where every ounce counts, that adds up over weeks.

Quilts do have a learning curve. Drafts can sneak in around the shoulders if you move too much, and the pad attachment system takes some dialing in. Once you master the setup, though, quilts deliver the lightest, most comfortable sleep for warm-weather and three-season trips. Curious how quilts stack up against mummy bags? Our best ultralight synthetic sleeping bag roundup includes several quilt options worth comparing.

Insulation Types: Down vs Synthetic

The fill inside your sleeping bag matters as much as the shape on the outside. Down and synthetic insulation each have well-documented strengths, and choosing between them shapes everything from weight to lifespan to price.

Hybrid Construction: Many premium bags now blend both insulation types. Synthetic fill goes in moisture-vulnerable zones like the footbox and hood, while high-loft down covers the torso and legs. The result captures most of down's weight savings with synthetic's wet-weather resilience.

Down Insulation Explained

Down insulation comes from the soft under-plumage of ducks and geese. It is the lightest, most compressible, and longest-lasting insulation available for sleeping bags. Fill power measures down quality: the volume (in cubic inches) that one ounce of down occupies. Higher fill power means more loft, more warmth, and less weight for the same temperature rating.

For most backpacking scenarios, down wins on almost every metric. A 20°F bag with 800-fill goose down typically weighs around two pounds, while the equivalent synthetic bag pushes three pounds or more. Down also compresses dramatically smaller, leaving room in your pack for food, layers, and gear. For a full breakdown of how down stacks up against synthetic fill across price, weight, and wet performance, see our down vs synthetic sleeping bag comparison.

The big caveat is moisture. Untreated down collapses when wet and loses nearly all insulating power. This is where modern hydrophobic down treatments earn their keep. Brands like DownTek and Nikwax Hydrophobic Down apply a water-resistant coating to each cluster, helping the down resist light rain, condensation, and body moisture for several hours. It is not waterproof, but it buys you precious time to dry out before the loft collapses. If you camp in damp climates or humid shoulder seasons, hydrophobic down is worth the modest price premium.

Ethical sourcing is another important consideration. Look for bags that carry the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) or Track My Down (TDS) certification. RDS ensures the down is traceable from farm to finished product and comes from birds that were not live-plucked or force-fed. TDS, run by the outdoor industry, provides similar guarantees. If animal welfare matters to you, these certifications let you choose a warm bag without compromising your values.

Synthetic Insulation Explained

Synthetic insulation uses polyester fibers engineered to mimic down's loft. The trade is straightforward: synthetic bags are heavier and bulkier, but they keep you warm when wet. Modern continuous-filament synthetics have closed much of the warmth-to-weight gap that once separated them from down, especially in the entry-level price tier.

Synthetic fill is also more affordable, easier to wash, and more forgiving of rough handling. If you're a weekend car camper, a family outfitter, or a backpacker who ventures into damp climates, synthetic is a smart choice. It also makes sense for anyone who wants to avoid the ethical questions around down sourcing entirely.

The main drawback is lifespan. Each compression cycle slowly breaks down polyester fibers. After three to five seasons of regular use, a synthetic bag loses noticeable loft and the temperature rating effectively slips by 10 to 15°F. Down, by contrast, can last a decade or more with proper care. For a closer look at the latest synthetic quilt designs, check our roundup of the best ultralight synthetic sleeping bags.

Hybrid Insulation Options

Hybrid sleeping bags place synthetic insulation in the moisture-vulnerable zones (footbox, hood, draft collar) and down everywhere else. You get roughly 80 percent of the weight savings of an all-down bag with significantly better performance in wet conditions. The construction is more complex, so hybrid bags typically cost more, but for serious three-season and shoulder-season camping, the balance is hard to beat.

Understanding Temperature Ratings

Temperature ratings trip up more first-time buyers than any other sleeping bag specification. The single number printed on the bag's spec tag rarely tells the full story.

The EN 13537 and ISO 23537 testing standards provide a consistent framework. Every compliant bag carries three numbers:

  1. Comfort Rating – The lowest temperature at which a standard female sleeper remains comfortably warm. Use this number if you tend to sleep cold or identify as female.
  2. Lower Limit – The lowest temperature at which a standard male sleeper remains comfortably warm. This is the number most brands lead with on packaging.
  3. Extreme Rating – A survival-only temperature. The bag will keep you alive but not comfortable. Never plan a trip around this number.

Temperature Rating Chart (Fahrenheit / Celsius)

SeasonComfort (°F)Comfort (°C)Use Case
Summer40 to 60°F4 to 15°CWarm nights, low elevation
3-Season20 to 35°F−7 to 2°CSpring, summer, fall above treeline
Winter0 to 20°F−18 to −7°CSnow camping, high altitude
Expedition−20°F and below−29°C and belowPolar, alpine, mountaineering

Here's the mistake I see constantly: a camper sees "20 Degree Bag" on the tag and assumes they'll be comfortable at 20°F. That 20°F number is almost always the Lower Limit, meaning a warm-blooded adult man would be okay. Women, cold sleepers, and anyone under fatigue, hunger, or stress typically need a bag rated 10 to 15°F (6 to 8°C) warmer for the same conditions.

After two decades of testing bags in the field, my rule is simple: pick a bag rated 10°F below your lowest expected overnight temperature. If the forecast calls for 30°F lows, bring a 20°F bag. That buffer accounts for metabolism, humidity, fatigue, and the occasional surprise cold snap.

Camping vs Backpacking: Which Type for You?

Your primary activity should drive the sleeping bag choice more than any other factor. Car camping and backpacking reward completely different priorities.

Car Camping Priorities: Comfort, internal volume, versatility, and price matter most. Weight is irrelevant since you carry the bag only from trunk to tent. A roomy rectangular or semi-rectangular synthetic bag works beautifully here. You save money and get generous space to sprawl.

Backpacking Priorities: Weight, packability, and thermal efficiency dominate. Every ounce compounds across miles of trail. A mummy-shaped down bag remains the gold standard for good reason: the weight savings stack up across your entire sleep system, freeing capacity for food, water, and safety gear.

What are the big 3 of camping?

The "Big 3" refers to the three heaviest items in a backpacking setup: your backpack, your shelter (tent or tarp), and your sleep system (sleeping bag plus sleeping pad). Together these typically account for 60 to 70 percent of total pack weight, which is why experienced backpackers focus their upgrade dollars here first.

For most people, one versatile 20°F semi-rectangular down bag covers both worlds. It's light enough for week-long backpacking trips and roomy enough for car-camping comfort. Specialized bags earn their place only when your trips push into extreme cold, ultra-long distances, or family settings.

Sleeping Pads and the Sleep System

A sleeping bag does half the job of keeping you warm. The other half belongs to your sleeping pad, which insulates you from the cold ground beneath. The ground can sap heat from your body up to 25 times faster than the air, so even an excellent bag leaves you freezing if you pair it with a thin mat.

Sleeping pads are rated by R-value, a standardized measure of insulation (the higher the number, the warmer the pad). For summer camping, an R-value of 1 to 2 works fine. Three-season campers should aim for R 3 to 4. Winter camping and snow travel demand R 5 or higher. Pairing a winter-rated bag with a summer pad is one of the most common mistakes I see new backpackers make.

Three pad types dominate the market:

  • Air Pads – Lightweight and packable, with the highest R-values per ounce. Require inflation (lung power or pump) and can puncture, so carry a patch kit.
  • Self-Inflating Pads – Foam plus air, combining comfort with reasonable pack size. Heavier than pure air pads but more forgiving and durable.
  • Closed-Cell Foam Pads – The classic foam mat. Indestructible, inexpensive, and lightweight, but bulky and less comfortable than inflatable options. Excellent backup.

For alternatives to standard foam pads, including hammock setups and air mattress options, our guide to sleeping pad alternatives explores less common choices that may suit your style of camping.

Shell Fabrics and Features

The outer shell of a sleeping bag does more than hold the insulation in. Modern shell fabrics balance weight, durability, water resistance, and breathability, and they directly affect how warm and comfortable you stay overnight.

Most shells are made from nylon or polyester ripstop, a weave that stops small tears from spreading. Ripstop nylon is lighter but more absorbent; ripstop polyester is heavier but dries faster. Premium bags use thinner denier ratings (20D or less) for low weight, while expedition bags use thicker fabric (40D+) for abuse resistance.

A DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish causes moisture to bead and roll off the shell instead of soaking in. DWR is not waterproof, but it adds meaningful protection against condensation, frost, and light precipitation. For wet climates, look for shells with both DWR treatment and a tighter weave.

Hardware features matter just as much as fabric. Two-way zippers let you ventilate your feet on warm nights. Anti-snag zipper tape prevents fabric from catching in the coil, which is one of the most common field failures. Right-hand and left-hand zip options let you zip two compatible bags together into a double. Draft tubes (insulated tubes behind the zipper) and draft collars (insulated rings at the shoulders) seal the two biggest heat-escape zones. A stash pocket near the chest holds a headlamp or phone, and a pillow pocket slides over a rolled jacket to create a stable pillow.

Sleeping Bag Care, Liners, and Storage

A well-cared-for sleeping bag delivers a decade or more of reliable warmth. A neglected one loses loft, accumulates body oils, and degrades fast. The basics are simple.

Storage: Never store a sleeping bag compressed in its stuff sack long-term. Loft collapses under constant compression, and the insulation loses its ability to trap air. Instead, store the bag loosely in a large cotton or mesh storage sack, hung over a hanger or draped across a closet shelf. Reserve the stuff sack for transport only.

Washing: Wash down bags in a front-loading machine with a down-specific detergent (Nikwax Down Wash is the standard). Tumble dry on low heat with clean tennis balls to break up clumps. Synthetic bags tolerate regular machine wash and dry cycles. Always air out a damp bag before storage to prevent mildew.

Liners: Sleeping bag liners add 5 to 15°F of warmth, protect the bag from body oils and dirt, and can be washed easily between trips. Silk liners are ultralight and pack tiny; cotton liners are comfortable and inexpensive; fleece liners add serious warmth for winter use. For recommendations across price points, see our roundup of the best sleeping bag liners.

Weight and Packability Considerations

Once you start backpacking, weight becomes a constant calculation. The chart below maps sleeping bag weight to realistic trip types and distances.

Sleeping Bag Weight by Trip Type

Weight ClassRangeTrip TypeTypical Daily Mileage
Ultralight1 to 2 lb (450 to 900 g)Thru-hikes, fastpacking15+ miles (24+ km)
Lightweight2 to 3 lb (900 g to 1.4 kg)Multi-day backpacking8 to 15 miles (13 to 24 km)
Standard3 to 4 lb (1.4 to 1.8 kg)Weekend trips, entry-level3 to 8 miles (5 to 13 km)
Winter / Expedition4+ lb (1.8+ kg)Snow camping, mountaineeringVariable

Is a 3lb sleeping bag too heavy for backpacking?

A 3-pound sleeping bag is perfectly acceptable for weekend backpacking and entry-level trips, but it sits at the heavy end of the spectrum for serious mileage. Most experienced backpackers target 2 pounds or less. For trips under 8 miles a day with light packs, 3 pounds will not ruin your experience.

Packability matters as much as raw weight. A bag that compresses to the size of a football leaves significantly more room for food, fuel, and layering. Down bags typically compress 30 to 50 percent smaller than synthetic bags with equivalent warmth ratings. When in doubt, look up the bag's compressed volume in liters on the manufacturer's spec sheet rather than trusting the marketing weight alone.

Specialized Sleeping Bag Types

Beyond the five primary shapes, the market offers specialized bags built for specific users and conditions. Most casual campers never need these, but if your trips push into unusual territory, they solve problems the standard shapes can't.

Women's-Specific Sleeping Bags

Women's-specific bags address real anatomical and metabolic differences. They use narrower cut at the shoulders, wider cut at the hips, and extra insulation in the footbox and torso, where women typically feel cold first. Most importantly, they are temperature-rated using the EN Comfort number rather than the Lower Limit, so the advertised rating matches what most women actually experience as comfortable.

The downside is fit. Taller or broader women often find women's bags too short or too tight. In 2026, more brands offer genderless or unisex fits that blend the best of both designs: the warmth distribution of women's bags with the longer cut and broader shoulders of unisex bags.

Kid-Specific Sleeping Bags

Children's sleeping bags are shorter (usually 50 to 60 inches), narrower, and feature fun prints that make camping exciting for younger campers. Many include features parents appreciate, such as two-way zippers for easy middle-of-the-night diaper changes, attached stuff sacks that won't get lost, and Velcro zipper covers to prevent pinching.

Temperature ratings for kid bags usually start warmer (around 40°F) because children are more sensitive to cold and tend to wiggle out of covers during the night. For a side-by-side review of top models, our guide to the best sleeping bag for teenagers covers the transition years when kids outgrow junior sizes but aren't ready for full adult bags.

Double-Wide and Large Sleeping Bags

Double-wide bags span roughly 60 to 80 inches wide to accommodate two adults, large framed sleepers, or parents who share a bag with young children. Many are rectangular to maximize internal volume, and they typically run 4 to 8 pounds. While too bulky for backpacking, they shine at car campsites, family reunions, and sleepovers where space and warmth trump portability.

Elephant's Foot Bags

These short, barrel-shaped bags cover only your torso and head, leaving the legs free. Climbers pair them with insulated pants for extreme alpine ascents where every gram counts and leg warmth comes from a separate system. They are not comfortable sleep bags but weight-saving tools for vertical pursuits.

Expedition Sleeping Bags

Expedition bags are rated for −20°F (−29°C) and below, with thick baffled construction, full draft collars, oversized hoods, and reinforced shells. They are heavy (often 5 to 8 pounds) and expensive, but they are the only safe choice for polar travel, high-altitude mountaineering, and serious winter expedition camping.

Bivy Sacks

Bivy sacks are waterproof shells that slip over your sleeping bag for emergency or minimalist shelter. They are not sleeping bags themselves, but they protect against wind, rain, and snow when paired with a sleeping bag inside. Experienced mountaineers carry them as backup, and minimalist adventurers use them as primary shelter for fast-and-light trips.

Choosing Your First Sleeping Bag

Buying your first sleeping bag is easier when you answer a few direct questions before browsing.

  1. Where will you camp? Car camping allows heavier, roomier, less expensive options. Backpacking demands lightweight efficiency.
  2. What temperatures will you encounter? Choose a bag rated 10°F (6°C) below your lowest expected overnight low.
  3. Are you a cold or warm sleeper? Cold sleepers should add another 5 to 10°F (3 to 6°C) of buffer to the rating.
  4. What's your budget? Quality synthetic bags start around $80 to $150. Quality down bags begin near $250 and climb from there.
  5. Do you sleep on your side or back? Side sleepers usually prefer semi-rectangular or spoon-shaped bags over tight mummy designs.

Quick Decision Guide by Use Case

Quick Decision Guide: Best Sleeping Bag Setup by Camper Type

Camper TypeRecommended ShapeRecommended FillSuggested Temp Rating
BeginnerSemi-rectangularSynthetic30°F (−1°C)
Car CamperRectangularSynthetic40°F (4°C)
BackpackerMummy or quiltDown (RDS certified)20°F (−7°C)
Thru-HikerQuiltDown or hydrophobic down30°F (−1°C)
Winter CamperMummy with hoodDown (high fill power)0°F (−18°C)
MountaineerExpedition mummyDown (800+ fill)−20°F (−29°C)

For most beginners, I still recommend starting with a 30°F semi-rectangular synthetic bag. It's versatile, forgiving, and inexpensive enough that you can replace it once you understand your preferences. Once you've camped a few seasons and know whether you run hot or cold, whether you prefer side sleeping, and whether backpacking has grabbed you, you can invest in a specialized bag. If you decide down fits your style, our roundup of the best down sleeping bags is a logical next stop.

Final Thoughts on Sleeping Bag Types

Choosing the right sleeping bag type comes down to matching the shape, insulation, and temperature rating to your specific camping style. Mummy bags and quilts dominate the backpacking world for their warmth-to-weight ratio. Rectangular and semi-rectangular bags rule the car-camping scene for comfort and versatility. Down rewards dry conditions with unmatched packability, while synthetic delivers reliable warmth when the weather turns wet.

Whatever you choose, remember the basics: pick a temperature rating that includes a 10°F buffer, pair your bag with an appropriate sleeping pad, store it loose between trips, and wash it when it starts to lose loft. With those fundamentals in place, your sleeping bag will keep you warm and rested through 2026 and many camping seasons to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the five types of sleeping bags?

The five main types are mummy bags (tapered, hooded, lightweight for cold and backpacking), rectangular bags (roomy, traditional shape for car camping), semi-rectangular bags (hybrid middle ground for versatile use), double sleeping bags (oversized two-person design for couples), and sleeping bag quilts (open-bottom blankets favored by ultralight backpackers).

Which sleeping bag shape is warmest?

The mummy bag is the warmest sleeping bag shape because its tapered design minimizes air space needing heating, includes an insulated hood to prevent heat loss through the head, and creates the most efficient insulation-to-body ratio available. A well-fitted mummy can be rated 10 to 15°F warmer than a rectangular bag with the same fill.

Is a 3lb sleeping bag too heavy for backpacking?

A 3-pound sleeping bag is acceptable for casual backpacking and beginners, but it sits at the heavy end for serious mileage. Most experienced backpackers target 2 pounds or less. For weekend trips under 8 miles a day, 3 pounds will not significantly affect your experience.

What is a good weight for a backpacking sleeping bag?

A good backpacking sleeping bag weighs 1 to 3 pounds depending on temperature rating. Summer bags (40 to 60°F / 4 to 15°C) should weigh 1 to 2 pounds. Three-season bags (20 to 35°F / −7 to 2°C) typically weigh 2 to 3 pounds. Winter bags add weight but should stay under 4 pounds for most backpacking applications.

What type of sleeping bag is best for beginners?

Beginners should start with a semi-rectangular synthetic bag rated around 30°F (−1°C). This provides versatility for car camping and mild backpacking, affordability, and more room to move than tight mummy bags. Once you know your preferences, you can invest in a specialized bag for your specific needs.

Should I choose down or synthetic insulation?

Choose down for backpacking and dry climates where weight savings and compressibility matter most. Choose synthetic for wet climates, car camping, or if you're on a budget. Down costs more but lasts longer (10+ years) and compresses smaller. Synthetic provides warmth when wet, costs less, and degrades after 3 to 5 years of regular use.

What is the warmest sleeping bag shape?

The mummy bag is the warmest sleeping bag shape available. Its tapered cut, integrated hood with drawcord, and snug fit around your body minimize dead air space and prevent heat loss. Among mummy bags, expedition-rated models with 800+ fill power down deliver the highest warmth for the lowest weight.

What is fill power in a sleeping bag?

Fill power measures the loft quality of down insulation, expressed as the volume in cubic inches one ounce of down occupies. Higher fill power means warmer, lighter, and more compressible insulation. 600-fill is budget quality, 700-fill is good, 800-fill is premium, and 900-fill is top-tier for ultralight performance.

How do I convert sleeping bag temperature ratings to Celsius?

To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9. A 20°F bag equals −7°C, a 30°F bag equals −1°C, and a 40°F bag equals 4°C. Most EN and ISO tested bags now print both scales on the spec tag. Comfort ratings in Celsius are typically 6 to 8°C warmer than Lower Limit ratings for the same bag.

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