Rabbit snails (Tylomelania) have captured the hearts of freshwater aquarium enthusiasts worldwide with their unique elephant-like faces, peaceful nature, and fascinating behaviors. These remarkable gastropods from the ancient lakes of Sulawesi, Indonesia, offer something truly special for aquarists seeking an invertebrate that combines beauty, functionality, and personality.
Having kept and bred these extraordinary snails for several years, I've discovered they're far more than just another cleanup crew member. Their slow, deliberate movements, interactive behaviors, and surprising intelligence make them captivating additions to any peaceful freshwater setup. What sets rabbit snails apart is their ovoviviparous reproduction – they give birth to live young rather than laying eggs, making population control significantly easier than with other aquarium snails.
In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore everything from their natural habitat in the mineral-rich waters of Lake Poso and Lake Matano to the specific care requirements that ensure these Sulawesi natives thrive in home aquariums. Whether you're considering your first rabbit snail or looking to improve your existing care routine, this guide provides the scientific knowledge and practical experience needed for success.
Rabbit Snail Species Profile
| Scientific Name: | Tylomelania spp. |
| Common Names: | Rabbit Snail, Elephant Snail, Sulawesi Snail |
| Origin: | Sulawesi, Indonesia (Endemic) |
| Size: | 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) |
| Lifespan: | 3-5 years |
| Temperature: | 75-86°F (24-30°C) |
| pH Range: | 7.5-8.5 |
| Care Level: | Moderate |
| Diet: | Omnivore (Algae, biofilm, detritus) |
Scientific Classification and Identification
The genus Tylomelania belongs to the family Pachychilidae and represents one of the most diverse freshwater gastropod radiations in Southeast Asia. Currently, scientists have identified over 50 species within this genus, though many remain scientifically undescribed. The adaptive radiation of these snails in Sulawesi's ancient lakes parallels the famous cichlid radiations in Africa's great lakes.
Identifying rabbit snails starts with their distinctive conical shells, which spiral elegantly upward rather than forming the typical rounded shape of most aquarium snails. The shell surface features pronounced ridges and grooves, creating a textured appearance that varies significantly between species. Shell coloration ranges from deep chocolate brown to golden yellow, with some species displaying striking orange or cream patterns.
The most distinctive feature is their elongated "rabbit-like" face – actually a modified foot and proboscis that gives them their common name. This extended snout houses chemoreceptors that help them locate food in murky substrate. Their bodies can be vibrant yellow, orange, white, or dark brown, often contrasting beautifully with their shells. Unlike many snails, rabbit snails have distinct eyes on short stalks and visible antennae that constantly probe their environment.
Common species in the aquarium trade include Tylomelania gemmifera (Yellow Rabbit Snail), T. zemis (Orange Rabbit Snail), and T. sp. "Yellow Antenna" among others. Each species exhibits slightly different care requirements, though the fundamental needs remain consistent across the genus.
Natural Habitat and Origins
Understanding the unique ecosystem of Sulawesi's ancient lakes is crucial for providing optimal care. These lakes – primarily Poso, Matano, Towuti, and Mahalona – formed millions of years ago and have remained remarkably stable, allowing for extensive speciation. Lake Matano, the deepest lake in Indonesia at over 590 meters, maintains year-round temperatures between 80-84°F with exceptionally stable water chemistry.
These lakes are characterized by their mineral-rich, slightly alkaline water with very low nutrient levels. The substrate consists primarily of fine sand, decomposed leaf litter, and volcanic sediments. Rabbit snails inhabit depths from shallow shorelines to over 20 meters deep, grazing on aufwuchs (the biofilm of algae, bacteria, and microorganisms) that covers rocks and wood.
The isolation of these lakes has resulted in high endemism – rabbit snails found here exist nowhere else on Earth. This isolation also means they've evolved without many predators, explaining their peaceful nature and relatively slow reproductive rate compared to other freshwater snails. The lakes' oligotrophic (nutrient-poor) nature has shaped their feeding behavior, making them efficient scavengers that extract maximum nutrition from limited resources.
Climate in Sulawesi remains tropical year-round, with water temperatures rarely fluctuating more than a few degrees. This stability means rabbit snails have limited tolerance for temperature swings, making consistent aquarium conditions essential for long-term success.
Tank Requirements and Setup
Creating an appropriate environment for rabbit snails requires careful attention to both space and substrate. A minimum tank size of 20 gallons accommodates up to 6 adult snails comfortably, though larger tanks provide better stability and allow for more natural behaviors. I've found that tanks of 40 gallons or larger create the most successful long-term habitats, especially when keeping multiple species or planning for reproduction.
Substrate selection significantly impacts rabbit snail health and behavior. Fine sand mimics their natural environment and allows them to burrow partially – a behavior I observe frequently in well-established tanks. Avoid sharp gravel that could damage their soft bodies or make movement difficult. A substrate depth of 2-3 inches enables natural foraging behaviors and provides insulation for their sensitive foot.
Filtration needs special consideration due to their sensitivity to water quality fluctuations. Canister filters or well-maintained hang-on-back filters work excellently, providing the moderate flow these snails prefer. Strong currents stress rabbit snails and make feeding difficult, so position filter outputs to create gentle circulation. Sponge filters make excellent supplementary filtration, providing additional grazing surfaces while ensuring baby snails won't be sucked into mechanical filters.
Aquascaping should include plenty of hard surfaces for biofilm growth. Driftwood, rocks, and broad-leaved plants create ideal grazing territories. I've noticed rabbit snails particularly enjoy Malaysian driftwood and smooth river rocks. Live plants generally remain safe, though hungry snails may nibble soft new growth. Java ferns, Anubias, and Cryptocoryne species prove especially compatible.
Lighting requirements are minimal – rabbit snails are most active during dawn and dusk periods. Moderate lighting encourages algae growth without promoting excessive algae that could compromise water quality. A timer maintaining 8-10 hours of light daily creates predictable conditions these creatures appreciate.
Critical Water Parameters
Water chemistry represents the most crucial aspect of rabbit snail care, and deviations from optimal parameters quickly lead to health issues. Temperature must remain between 75-86°F (24-30°C), with 78-82°F being ideal for most species. I maintain my rabbit snail tanks at 80°F using reliable heaters with backup temperature monitoring. Sudden temperature drops cause lethargy and can trigger dormancy, while excessive heat accelerates metabolism beyond sustainable levels.
pH levels should stay between 7.5 and 8.5, mimicking the alkaline conditions of Sulawesi lakes. Rabbit snails struggle in acidic water, which erodes their shells and impairs their ability to build new shell material. Regular testing ensures pH stability – I check twice weekly and adjust using crushed coral in the filter if needed.
Hardness parameters deserve special attention. General hardness (GH) should range from 6-15 dGH, while carbonate hardness (KH) maintains best at 4-8 dKH. These minerals are essential for shell development and overall health. Soft water leads to shell erosion, visible as white patches or pitting on older shell growth.
Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero, as rabbit snails show extreme sensitivity to these compounds. Nitrates should stay below 20 ppm, though I aim for under 10 ppm through regular water changes and live plants. Weekly 25-30% water changes maintain stability while preventing the accumulation of dissolved organics that could alter pH.
One often-overlooked parameter is dissolved oxygen. Rabbit snails require well-oxygenated water, achieved through adequate surface agitation and avoiding overstocking. Signs of oxygen deficiency include snails congregating near the surface or remaining inactive for extended periods.
Diet and Feeding Guide
Rabbit snails are omnivorous scavengers with hearty appetites despite their slow movement. In established tanks, they graze continuously on biofilm, algae, and detritus. However, supplemental feeding ensures proper nutrition and promotes healthy shell growth. I feed my rabbit snails every other day, adjusting quantity based on how quickly food disappears.
High-quality sinking pellets form the foundation of their diet. Algae wafers, shrimp pellets, and bottom-feeder tablets all work well. I prefer pellets containing spirulina and other plant matter, as these closely match their natural diet. One medium algae wafer feeds 3-4 adult snails, though they're leisurely eaters who may take hours to finish.
Fresh vegetables add variety and essential nutrients. Blanched zucchini, cucumber, spinach, and lettuce are eagerly consumed. Sweet potato and carrot provide beta-carotene that enhances their natural coloration. I attach vegetables to a feeding clip or weigh them down with aquarium-safe weights, removing uneaten portions after 24 hours to prevent water quality issues.
Calcium supplementation is crucial for shell health. Cuttlebone pieces left in the tank provide continuous calcium availability. Alternatively, crushed eggshells (boiled and dried) or calcium-rich foods like kale support shell development. I've noticed improved shell quality and faster growth in juveniles when calcium supplements are consistently available.
Protein sources shouldn't be overlooked. Rabbit snails appreciate occasional bloodworms, brine shrimp, or fish food pellets. In nature, they consume deceased animals, so small amounts of protein support reproduction and growth. However, excessive protein can foul water quickly, so moderation is key.
An interesting behavior I've observed is their attraction to biofilm-covered surfaces. Leaving a piece of driftwood in a bucket of aquarium water for several weeks develops a nutritious biofilm that rabbit snails find irresistible. This mimics their natural feeding and provides enrichment.
Compatible Tank Mates
Selecting appropriate tank mates for rabbit snails requires understanding their peaceful nature and vulnerability. Their slow movement and inability to fully retract into their shells makes them easy targets for aggressive fish. Through years of keeping these snails, I've identified ideal companions that share their calm temperament and water parameter requirements.
Small, peaceful fish make excellent tank mates. Celestial pearl danios, ember tetras, and neon tetras ignore rabbit snails completely while adding movement to upper water levels. Corydoras catfish share bottom-dwelling habits without competing for food, and their playful nature provides entertaining interactions. Otocinclus catfish help with algae control without bothering snails.
Other invertebrates generally coexist peacefully with rabbit snails. Amano shrimp and cherry shrimp make particularly good companions, sharing similar feeding habits without competition. However, I avoid keeping rabbit snails with assassin snails, which may prey on juveniles despite adults being too large to attack. Mystery snails and nerite snails cohabitate well, though ensure adequate food for all species.
Certain fish species should absolutely be avoided. Cichlids, even smaller species, often harass and potentially kill rabbit snails. Loaches, particularly clown loaches and yo-yo loaches, are natural snail predators. Pufferfish of any species will actively hunt and consume rabbit snails. Large goldfish may attempt to eat smaller snails and compete heavily for food.
When introducing rabbit snails to community tanks, observe interactions carefully for the first week. Some fish initially investigate new tank additions but lose interest quickly. Others may persistently nip at snail antennae, causing stress and eventual death. Any signs of harassment warrant immediate separation.
Breeding Information
Rabbit snail reproduction differs dramatically from most aquarium snails, making them ideal for aquarists concerned about overpopulation. As ovoviviparous creatures, females carry eggs internally until fully-developed juveniles emerge. This process takes 4-6 weeks, with females producing only 1-3 offspring at a time.
Sexual maturity occurs around 6-8 months when shells reach approximately 1.5 inches. Distinguishing males from females proves challenging without observing mating behavior. During courtship, males position themselves on females' shells, and copulation can last several hours. I've noticed increased mating activity following large water changes or when barometric pressure drops.
Females store sperm for multiple reproductive cycles, producing young every 4-8 weeks under optimal conditions. Baby snails emerge fully formed, measuring 4-7mm with perfectly spiraled shells. Unlike egg-laying species, survival rates are high since juveniles bypass vulnerable egg and larval stages.
Creating breeding conditions requires stable parameters and abundant food. Slightly warmer temperatures (82-84°F) stimulate reproduction, as does high-quality nutrition. I've found adding calcium supplements and protein-rich foods increases breeding frequency and juvenile survival rates.
Raising juveniles requires no special care beyond ensuring adequate food availability. Young snails grow slowly, adding approximately 2-3mm monthly under ideal conditions. They feed on the same foods as adults but benefit from finely crushed flakes and pellets. Biofilm-covered surfaces prove especially important for juvenile growth.
Population control rarely becomes problematic given their slow reproduction rate. A pair might produce 20-30 offspring annually under optimal conditions – far fewer than pest snails that can produce hundreds of eggs monthly. This controlled reproduction makes rabbit snails perfect for aquarists wanting snails without explosion risks.
Common Health Issues and Troubleshooting
Understanding common health problems helps prevent issues before they become serious. Shell damage represents the most frequent concern I encounter. White spots, pitting, or erosion indicate calcium deficiency or acidic water conditions. Immediately test pH and hardness, adjusting as needed. Adding cuttlebone and performing water changes with properly mineralized water usually reverses early shell damage.
Lethargy or extended periods of inactivity often signal environmental stress. Check temperature first – rabbit snails become sluggish below 75°F. Poor water quality, particularly elevated nitrates or ammonia, causes similar symptoms. Copper exposure from medications or contaminated foods proves fatal, so always verify copper-free status of any tank additions.
Parasites occasionally affect rabbit snails, though less commonly than fish. Small white worms (planaria or detritus worms) indicate overfeeding and poor maintenance rather than true parasitism. Reducing feeding and increasing gravel vacuuming typically resolves these issues. True parasites appear as attached organisms or cause visible tissue damage, requiring specific treatments.
Mantle collapse, where the body appears to separate from the shell, indicates serious illness or extreme stress. Common causes include rapid parameter changes, copper exposure, or severe nutrient deficiency. While sometimes reversible with immediate intervention, prevention through stable conditions proves more effective.
Mystery deaths sometimes occur despite seemingly perfect conditions. Rabbit snails are sensitive to heavy metals, chloramines, and other water contaminants undetectable by standard tests. Using quality water conditioners and avoiding any metals in the tank prevents these issues. Old age also accounts for sudden deaths in snails over 3 years old.
When problems arise, systematic troubleshooting identifies causes quickly. Test all water parameters, review recent tank changes, check for dead tank mates that could cause ammonia spikes, and examine affected snails closely for physical symptoms. Most issues resolve with improved water quality and appropriate feeding.
Conservation Status and Ethical Keeping
The conservation status of rabbit snails deserves serious consideration from responsible aquarists. Several Tylomelania species, including T. gemmifera, are listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List. Habitat destruction from nickel mining, pollution from agricultural runoff, and collection for the aquarium trade threaten wild populations.
Lake Poso, home to numerous endemic species, faces particular pressure from introduced fish species and hydroelectric development. The lake's unique ecosystem, millions of years in the making, could disappear within decades without intervention. This reality makes captive breeding programs increasingly important for species preservation.
Ethical sourcing should guide purchase decisions. Wild-caught specimens stress easily and often carry parasites, while depleting natural populations. Captive-bred snails adapt better to aquarium life and support sustainable practices. When purchasing, ask sellers about origins – reputable sources readily provide this information.
Supporting conservation extends beyond purchasing decisions. Successful breeding reduces demand for wild specimens while potentially preserving genetic diversity. Sharing offspring with local aquarium clubs spreads captive populations. Some advanced aquarists participate in species-specific breeding programs aimed at maintaining pure lines of threatened species.
Never release rabbit snails into local waterways, regardless of climate. While unlikely to survive in most regions, introduced species can devastate native ecosystems. Rehoming unwanted snails through aquarium forums or local fish stores ensures responsible disposal. Education about these remarkable creatures' conservation needs helps protect wild populations for future generations.
Setting Up Your First Rabbit Snail Tank
Starting your rabbit snail journey requires careful planning and patience. Begin with tank cycling at least 4-6 weeks before adding snails. This extended cycling period ensures stable parameters and develops the biofilm these grazers depend upon. I recommend fishless cycling using ammonia or fish food, monitoring parameters until ammonia and nitrite consistently read zero.
Equipment selection impacts long-term success. Choose heaters with precise temperature control – fluctuations stress rabbit snails significantly. Invest in quality test kits for pH, GH, KH, and nitrogen compounds. Digital thermometers provide accurate readings, while backup heaters prevent disasters during equipment failures.
When selecting your first rabbit snails, examine them carefully. Healthy snails have intact shells without cracks or excessive erosion. Active individuals exploring tank surfaces indicate good health, while those remaining motionless may be stressed or ill. The body should fill the shell opening completely without appearing swollen or retracted.
Acclimation requires extra care given their sensitivity. Float sealed bags for 20 minutes to equilibrate temperature. Then, add small amounts of tank water every 10 minutes for an hour. This gradual process prevents shock from parameter differences. Never add bag water to your tank – net snails gently or let them crawl onto your hand for transfer.
Initial feeding should be minimal until snails show normal activity. Offer small amounts of familiar foods like algae wafers, observing consumption rates. Uneaten food after 24 hours indicates overfeeding. Gradually introduce variety once snails settle, typically within a week of introduction.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many rabbit snails can I keep in a 20-gallon tank?
A 20-gallon tank comfortably houses 4-6 adult rabbit snails. This stocking level provides adequate space for grazing while maintaining water quality. Consider that juveniles will add to the bioload as they grow, so starting with fewer adults allows room for population growth.
Do rabbit snails eat aquarium plants?
Rabbit snails rarely damage healthy plants, preferring algae and decaying matter. They may consume dying leaves or soft new growth when hungry, but well-fed snails leave plants untouched. I've successfully kept them with various plants including Java fern, Anubias, and Cryptocoryne species without issues.
How long do rabbit snails live?
With proper care, rabbit snails typically live 3-5 years in aquariums. Some individuals reach 6 years, though this is exceptional. Stable water parameters, appropriate nutrition, and absence of predators contribute to longevity. Wild specimens likely live longer due to optimal natural conditions.
Can rabbit snails live in cold water?
No, rabbit snails require tropical temperatures between 75-86°F. Temperatures below 74°F cause severe stress, lethargy, and eventual death. Their tropical origins mean they lack adaptations for temperature fluctuations, making reliable heating essential year-round.
Why is my rabbit snail floating?
Floating usually indicates trapped air in the shell, often occurring after handling or during transport. Gently hold the snail underwater, opening facing down, and rotate slightly to release air bubbles. If floating persists or snails appear unable to right themselves, check water parameters immediately.
How often do rabbit snails reproduce?
Mature females produce 1-3 babies every 4-8 weeks under optimal conditions. This slow reproduction rate means a pair might produce 20-30 offspring annually. Environmental factors, nutrition, and age significantly influence breeding frequency.
Can I keep rabbit snails with shrimp?
Yes, rabbit snails coexist perfectly with most freshwater shrimp species. Cherry shrimp, Amano shrimp, and bamboo shrimp make excellent tank mates. Both groups share similar peaceful temperaments and benefit from the same foods and water parameters.
What should I do if my rabbit snail's shell is damaged?
Address shell damage immediately by testing and correcting water parameters, particularly pH and hardness. Add calcium supplements like cuttlebone or crushed coral. Minor damage often heals with proper conditions, though severe erosion may be permanent. New growth will be healthy if conditions improve.
Do rabbit snails need special lighting?
Rabbit snails don't require special lighting and are most active during low-light periods. Standard aquarium lighting that supports plant growth works perfectly. Avoid excessive lighting that promotes nuisance algae growth beyond what snails can consume.
How can I tell if my rabbit snail is dead?
Dead snails typically smell strongly of sulfur or rotten eggs. The body may hang limply from the shell or be absent entirely. If unsure, place the snail in a separate container with tank water and observe for 24 hours. Living snails eventually show movement or respond to food.
Advanced Care Tips and Observations
After years of keeping rabbit snails, I've noticed fascinating behaviors that enhance the keeping experience. These snails exhibit surprising intelligence, recognizing feeding times and locations. They often gather at usual feeding spots before I arrive, suggesting temporal awareness uncommon in invertebrates.
Social interactions prove more complex than expected. While not truly social, rabbit snails tolerate conspecifics well and sometimes rest in groups. During feeding, they maintain personal space but don't compete aggressively. Juveniles often follow adults, possibly learning feeding locations through chemical trails.
Seasonal changes affect behavior despite stable tank conditions. I've observed increased activity during barometric pressure drops, mimicking wild responses to weather changes. Moon phases might influence reproduction, though this needs more observation to confirm.
Creating naturalistic environments enhances rabbit snail welfare. Adding leaf litter from oak or catappa trees provides grazing surfaces and releases beneficial tannins. These additions mirror natural habitats while offering enrichment. Varied substrate depths allow snails to exhibit natural burrowing behaviors I rarely see in bare-bottom setups.
Long-term success requires patience and consistency. Unlike fish that show immediate responses to care changes, rabbit snails react slowly. Shell quality improvements take months to become visible. Breeding increases gradually as conditions stabilize. This delayed feedback makes consistent care essential – problems developing over weeks require months to resolve.
Conclusion
Rabbit snails offer a unique combination of beauty, personality, and functionality that makes them standout additions to freshwater aquariums. Their peaceful nature, controlled reproduction, and fascinating behaviors provide endless interest while their algae-eating habits benefit tank health. Success with these remarkable gastropods comes from understanding their specialized needs and providing stable, appropriate conditions.
The key points for successful rabbit snail keeping include maintaining tropical temperatures (78-82°F), slightly alkaline pH (7.5-8.5), and adequate calcium for shell health. Regular feeding with quality foods, careful tank mate selection, and patience during acclimation ensure these Sulawesi natives thrive in captivity. Their slow reproduction rate eliminates concerns about overpopulation while still allowing the joy of raising juveniles.
Beyond their role as aquarium inhabitants, keeping rabbit snails contributes to conservation efforts for these endangered species. By choosing captive-bred specimens and sharing breeding success, aquarists help preserve these unique animals for future generations. Every well-maintained rabbit snail tank represents a small sanctuary for species threatened in their native habitat.
Whether you're drawn to their distinctive appearance, peaceful temperament, or conservation significance, rabbit snails reward dedicated aquarists with years of enjoyment. Take time to observe their behaviors, maintain stable conditions, and appreciate these living gems from Indonesia's ancient lakes. With proper care, your rabbit snails will become beloved long-term residents, adding character and ecological balance to your aquatic ecosystem.
Quick Care Checklist
- ✓ Minimum 20-gallon tank with soft sand substrate
- ✓ Temperature: 78-82°F (25-28°C) with reliable heater
- ✓ pH: 7.5-8.5 with GH 6-15, KH 4-8
- ✓ Weekly 25% water changes
- ✓ Fed every other day with algae wafers and vegetables
- ✓ Calcium supplement always available
- ✓ Compatible tank mates only
- ✓ Monitor for shell damage or lethargy
- ✓ Purchase captive-bred when possible
